1° de Maio

The queue outside the saloon-style swing doors from around 8pm every weeknight testifies to the popularity of this budget classic. At lunchtime, too, canny regulars cram round snugly fitted tables, tucking into grilled fish or meat dishes, served fast and with a smile, at reasonable prices. For something a bit fancier, go for stewed osso buco (oxtail) or partridge. The restaurant is a rock-solid option for Portuguese standards, including desserts such as bolo de bolacha (a cake made from layers of biscuits and cream) or traditional sericaia, made with eggs, milk and flour, and flavoured with cinnamon and lemon.