Portas Largas

Its location in the centre of the Bairro Alto makes this place a real hub, and on summer nights the street outside is packed. Gay-owned and -run, it's nevertheless quite mixed, particularly early on. The decor is unchanged from when it was a scruffy tasca before the in-crowd's arrival: same marble tables, same peanut-littered floor and same music split between fado and dance (unless a Latin band takes over).