Bar da Velha Senhora

The name is a sly reference to a nickname for the dictator Salazar, 'the old lady' in power for four decades to 1968. Picking up on the area's louche traditions back then, this bar hosts burlesque shows from 11pm to midnight on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays. The small stage is at the far end of what is little more than a brick-lined tunnel, and space is at a premium - though there's room to breathe on the terrace. On Tuesdays and Wednesdays there's live music - flamenco and jazz respectively - from 10.30pm. This is a good place to head for if you've skipped dinner: they serve quite elaborate snacks until midnight.