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[title]HOTTEST ‘HOODS
Xuhui
Much of northern Xuhui is dominated by the kind of pleasant, tree-lined streets and European-style villa houses that the words ‘Former French Concession’ bring to mind, not to mention many of the best bars and restaurants in the city.
Xuhui Riverside
As the name suggests, this area is also technically part of Xuhui, but it’s a fair way south of the Former French Concession streets. The area is dominated by former industrial architecture converted into some of the best art museums in town – the Long Museum, the Shanghai Centre of Photography and the aircraft hangar Yuz Museum are all here and worth a visit, as are the waterside walkways.
SHOP
Dong Liang Studio
With a focus on showcasing emerging design talents from across China, this boutique is beautifully presented in an old lanehouse.
184 Fumin Lu, Jingan district (+86 21 3469 6926).
Young Chinese Blood
Shanghai through and through, Young Chinese Blood (YCB) is a brand for the urban gentleman, never short on supply of super-fly bowties, pocket squares and scarves, smart-casual patterned tees and button downs, and a whole other array of hip lifestyle products – with a few unisex things in the mix, too.
1237 Fuxing Zhong Lu near Jiashan Lu, Xuhui district (+86 136 51789 350)
Pawnstar
Holed up in a 1930s lane house, Pawnstar is owned by Jane Jia and Nels Frye, who have been selling second-hand designer goods through WeChat and Taobao for a few years and are hoping to replicate their success offline. It has a full complement of menswear, womenswear, and childrenswear, set out across seven stories.
64, 64 Fenyang Lu, near Fuxing Zhong Lu, Xuhui district (+86 156 1833 1415)
EAT
Jia Jia Tangbao
Shanghainese will argue bitterly over who serves the best xiao long bao and tang bao (traditional soup-filled dumplings) in town, but you can’t go wrong at Jia Jia Tangbao – as evidenced by lengthy queues out the door. If you’re willing to splash out for dumplings, try their legendary crab meat and roe ones that sell for RMB99 (about RM67) a dozen.
90 Huanghe Lu, Huangpu district (+86 21 6327 6878).
Tao Heung
The allure of this Hong Kong chain restaurant is its vast variety of dishes and budget prices. You can order from three menus (in Chinese only, with photos) including hot pot, classical Cantonese main dishes and dim sum. Be sure not to skip the signature siu mai and almond soup with black sesame glutinous dumplings.
999 Huaihai Zhong Lu, near Shaanxi Nan Lu, Xuhui district (+86 21 3363 7999).
Da Dong
Da Dong serves up golden-brown Peking Duck, which is carved and served in front of you. The classic ‘super lean’ whole roasted duck is supposedly healthier than the versions served by Dong’s competitors, but the important thing is that it’s certainly tastier.
1601 Nanjing Xi Lu, Jingan district (+86 21 3253 2299)
Friday Uighur Market
If you can’t make it to Kashgar for the Xinjiang capital’s renowned Sunday bazaar, this mini version is well worth a look. Taking place around Friday prayers beside one of the city’s largest mosques, this market sees a series of stalls set up with seasonal fruits, tasty fresh breads and, of course, lots of roast lamb.
1328 Changde Lu, Putuo district.
DRINK
Second Moment
Second Moment is a chilled-out, unpretentious neighbourhood bar that has something for everyone. There are two menus: ‘From Shangri-La’, focused on floral flavours and tiki drinks, and ‘Behind the Curtain’ – a riff of The Curtain Club at the Ritz-Carlton Berlin – which highlights classic drinks. The cocktails are very good or great; go for their signature drinks like The Far East Sour, the Bramble and Tiki Time.
71 Wuyuan Lu, near Changshu Lu, Jingan district (+86 21 6472 0775)
Starling
Hidden down a traditional lane, Starling offers some creative, largely savoury cocktails in an interior that features nods to Singapore’s Raffles, but with a laidback vibe.
Zhong Plaza, 99 Taixing Lu, Jingan district (+86 21 6217 0189).
Heyday
Pitching itself as a ‘vintage live jazz bar’, Heyday is a small, intimate space with a handful of tables dotted between where the band takes to the floor (there’s no raised stage). Enjoy your night here with a selection of drinks that include barrel-aged Negronis and Vieux Carres, as well as shaken cocktails like The Corpse of Old Tom.
50 Taian Lu, Xuhui district (+86 21 6236 6075)
Shanghai folks doing tai chi.
THINGS TO DO
Lujiazui’s skyscrapers
A trip to the top of one of Lujiazui’s enormous skyscrapers is worth it for the views. If you want to skip the observatory entrance fees, head to the bars at the top of Jin Mao or SWFC instead.
Disappearing old Shanghai
In the past 20 years, the destruction of Shanghai’s old lanehouses has been relentless, but there are still some beautiful ones that have been spared the bulldozers, for now. You’ll find a cluster near People’s Square that is worth exploring.
HIDDEN GEMS
Speak Low
The small Fuxing Lu speakeasy has quality cocktails, hidden rooms within hidden rooms, and a buzzing atmosphere – if you can find your way in.
579 Fuxing Zhong Lu, Huangpu district (+86 21 6416 0133).
Propaganda Poster Art Centre
In the basement of a residential tower block, owner Yang Peiming pulls together a fascinating collection of over 5,000 propaganda posters, many rescued from recycling and rubbish bins and spanning the early days of the People’s Republic to the end of the Cultural Revolution.
B/1, Bldg B, 868 Huashan Lu, Xuhui district (+86 21 6211 1845).
DON’T MISS
Getting up early. Perhaps still woozy from a night at the KTV, Shanghai’s hyper-modernity doesn’t get going first thing in the morning, allowing the city’s more traditional side to shine.
LOCAL’S TIP
Taxi booking apps have made hailing a cab increasingly difficult. Instead, hire a bike, take the metro, or just walk; most places are accessible by these modes of transport.