This no-frills eatery in Kota Kemuning is a reincarnation of the famous assam laksa stall in the Ayer Itam market in Penang. The 64-year old Ang Kok Peoh (‘Angcle Peoh’ being a play on his surname as he’s known as ‘Uncle Peoh’) grew up helping his mother peddle assam laksa in the 1950s. The Ang family’s humble story is displayed on the wall at the restaurant – from the time Ang’s mother carried assam laksa ingredients in a rattan basket on foot to the market, to when she was able to afford a bicycle some years after, and then a pedicab, until they finally scored a much-coveted stall at the market.
The decision to relocate the stall from Ayer Itam to Klang came about after Ang’s eldest daughter, Ang Kar Bee, moved to Selangor. The menu at the non-halal Angcle Peoh covers plenty of Penang favourites, from duck egg char kuey teow to rojak (with gravy that’s simmered for five hours a day, no less). However, the highlight is definitely the assam laksa – generous toppings of mint leaves and bunga kantan, a sardine-rich broth, lots of tamarind and chillies, finished off with addictive hae koh (prawn paste) that’s sourced from Penang – made with the same recipe that’s been passed down from Ang’s mother. Until today, Ang can be spotted in the kitchen, ensuring the standard of every bowl is up to scratch.
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