Napa, the new kid on a block off Sri Hartamas, specialises in long-lost Thai delicacies but doesn’t skimp on all the more familiar flavours, either. Start with the yum cha om goong kai mod dang, a salad of ant eggs (!) and shrimp, served with crispy acacia in a spicy lime dressing. Some standouts include char-grilled Australian Angus beef strip loin with homemade panang curry; pan-fried squid egg with spicy coriander lime sauce and mint leaves; and slow-cooked marinated lamb shank in a sweet and sour sauce, all best paired with a frosty glass of Singha beer.
If you’re in the mood for classics (but elevated), go for deep-fried stuffed chicken wings, Surat Thani crab fried rice, and end on a sweet note with a do-it-yourself dessert: crispy pancakes with egg yolk angel hair, Thai meringue, sesame and shredded savory coconut.