For those in the know, Ho Kow Hainam was a true hidden gem in Lorong Panggung with only a couple of tables spilling out on the street. Of course, in the early days, it was named Soon Kee for Ho Kow’s father, who set up the stall in ’56 selling Hainanese snacks and treats such as tea, soft-boiled eggs and toasts. In 2018, Ho Kow received an eviction order — and decided to move out of their sixty-plus-years address to a shophouse on the main street of Jalan Balai Polis, only a stone’s throw away.
It proved to be a blessing in disguise. Ho Kow Hainam has always been well-loved by locals, but since its Jalan Balai Polis opening (the nostalgia-evoking old school décor helps, certainly), it has become something of a food destination in Chinatown. Be warned: a 30-minute wait is not uncommon. Today, the kopitiam is in the very capable hands of Ho Kow’s daughter, Ho Sook Chan and her children, though Ho Kow himself is still a regular sighting at the shop. For kopi, everything from cham to kopi c is available. Order a kaya and butter toast or bun to pair, then load up on nasi lemak ayam goreng.