What’s all the fuss about marbling grades?
As advised by Benjamin Halat, chef de cuisine of Mandarin Grill
‘The marbling grade defines the fat condensation inside the meat – the higher the marbling grade, the juicier, tenderer and more flavourful the piece of meat. Of course, the meat becomes more expensive as the marbling grade increases, but in terms of preparation, there’s not much difference in terms of readying meats with lower or higher marbling grades. The most important thing is to have a nice, hot charcoal grill for the added smokiness. It’s also recommended to serve steak medium rare to rare as meat, regardless of marbling grades, becomes drier the longer you cook it.’
What is Kobe beef and why is it so highly prized?
As advised by How Yoke Seng, executive chef of Kampachi
‘In Japan, there are four breeds of wagyu, and Kuroge Washu [also known as Japanese Black] is one of the largest breeds in Japan. Kobe beef takes on the dominant Japanese Black wagyu strain genetics called Tajima. Raised in Hyogo Prefecture, Kobe is the capital and the meat’s brand. The superior marbling traits have set a benchmark for wagyu breeding outside of Japan by international authorities.
‘Kobe beef is highly prized because its breed has maintained a pure lineage since the Edo period. The Tajima cattle are properly fed and tended for three years to meet the Kobe beef standards. In terms of taste, Kobe beef gives you a melt-in-the-mouth experience because of the wide distribution of fat in the meat. At Kampachi, we highly recommend customers to opt for medium rare to savour the beef’s buttery richness.’
Why is cow feed so important and how does it affect the meat’s texture and taste?
As advised by Antoine Rodriguez, executive chef of Le Méridien Kuala Lumpur
‘The type of cow feed is important because it contributes to the texture and nutrients of the meat. In comparison to grain-fed cattle, grass-fed cattle produce leaner meat because they’re left to roam in the field. The grain-feeding method is used to quicken the growth of the cattle to produce more meat.
‘If the cattle are grain-fed, their meat will have a rich marbling of fat, which makes it more flavourful. Because it has a higher fat content, the meat is easier to chew. Most diners prefer grain-fed cuts, but the grass-fed cattle/meat is slowly returning to restaurant menus because people are becoming more conscious about their food intake.’
What are the differences between dry-aged beef and wet-aged beef?
As advised by Danny Choi, co-owner of Beato Steakhouse
Ageing is an important process during which connective tissue is broken down to tenderise the meat, but steak enthusiasts are usually split between preference for dry-ageing and wet-ageing. Dry-ageing is a process in which fresh beef is hung in near-freezing temperatures for a lengthy period. During this time, fungi cling to the meat’s surface to form a dry, hard crust which is discarded before cooking. It’s not as gross as it sounds; this ‘breathing’ process allows the meat’s natural juices and flavours to be sealed into the meat, and it works especially well with fatty cuts. Hence, cooked dry-aged beef doesn’t release blood or juice when cut but instead spurts a syrupy sweetness when bitten into. Meanwhile, wet-aged beef is aged in its own juices in a tightly sealed bag. This results in a more intense bloodiness when cooked, and works well with lean cuts like tenderloin.
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Where to have steak in KL
Chambers Bar & Grill is a meat-heavy restaurant where beef is aged in a special Himalayan salt tile dry aging cabinet and cooked on skewers robatayaki style. Meat here is dry-aged for weeks before chucked onto the grill and served with various salts and sides.
The latest establishment by Werner Kuhn, The Steakhouse is a 40-seater steak joint along Changkat Bukit Bintang and adjacent to The Whisky Bar. The beef is imported from Australia and you can choose between the aged Black Angus and grain fed. Thereon, choose from five cuts – medallion, tenderloin, rib-eye, T-bone and striploin after which you choose your sauce (béarnaise, black pepper, red wine etc), style of potatoes (fried, mashed, sautéed) and vegetables (grilled asparagus, sweet corn, sautéed spinach etc). All cuts are grilled over charcoal, a style popularised by the Argentinians.
Situated at the site of the old Pacifica, the Mandarin Grill has lifted steak dining in the city to a whole new level. The MO has always provided the culinary excellence in its outlets but Mandarin Grill is genuinely something new and different. The calibre and exemplary preparation of the meat merits its ranking as one of the city’s very best restaurants.
July 2008 The first thing that grabs you about Prime is its elegant modern décor, oversized tables and its wide open kitchen with an uninterrupted view of chefs hard at work. Attention to detail is a key element at ‘Prime’ evident by the house made bread and butter selection served to you the moment you plonk yourself down. Beef is a serious subject matter here with a selection of steaks from Australia, Japan, Argentina and US and what impressed me the most was the fact that you can order your steak based on cut, weight and number of days it’s been aged. For non-bovine eaters there’s also an extensive selection of appetizers, soups and salads with poultry and seafood dishes. Opting for a mix of traditional steak restaurant fare, my partner and I ordered the apple wood smoked Norwegian salmon (RM45) and the truffle ravioli, mushroom fricassee (RM50). Of the two, the salmon dish stood out with the freshly smoked slices infused just right. The ravioli was a decent enough with pasta parcels packed with truffles and served with a creamy sauce. And then came the steaks. Feeling slightly stuffed it was a wise move to order the 8oz selection of ribeye (RM95) and centre cut filet mignon (RM165). Both steaks were 200-day grain fed Black Angus and came with caramelised balsamic-shallot jus and cracked peppercorn sauces. The ribeye, which under the strict advice of the maître d’ was served medium rare was tender and grilled almost to perfection. The filet mignon was tender and full of f
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