Kyoto is a very particular place. While Japan’s other cities can be overwhelmingly frenetic, occasionally impersonal and almost hyper real at times, the former capital is a warm, rustic and welcoming place. Put it like this: if the rest of Japan is steel and concrete, Kyoto is resolutely wooden. And arguably there’s no luxury hotel which embodies this vibe as completely and as successfully as Hotel the Mitsui.
That’s not to say this place is some kind of themed novelty throwback. It’s a thoroughly modern place, with more luxury mod cons than your average Shangri La. But from the moment you’re through its monumental 1700s gate, the Mitsui’s single-minded dedication to natural colours, peaceful design and general harmonious energies is tangible. The property is built around a broad and tranquil courtyard, complete with an ornamental pond and weeping cherry tree, and its surrounding corridors are full of wooden arcs, washi lights and modern sculptures. If it feels like you’ve strolled into the palatial home of an incredibly rich family, that’s because you sort of have. Hotel the Mitsui was the former residence of the executive branch of Edo-era Mitsui family, who were to Kyoto what the Medicis were to Florence hundreds of years earlier.
Rooms are all in keeping with the rest of the property. Smooth wood, rich in colour, dominates the decor and creates a satisfyingly warm and welcoming ambience. We had a huge bed (not always a given in Japanese hotels) with a garden view, but rooms overlooking the neighbouring Niji Castle are also available. Smile-inducing details include tables carved from individual pieces of cherry wood, understated designer furniture and smooth stone countertops which add a sense of weight and permanence. There’s also an incredibly powerful shower in the sleek and sexy bathrooms, which feature wide baths with loads of space.
There’s plenty to do if you feel like kicking around the hotel. A natural onsen (piping up mineral-rich warm water from a kilometre beneath the hotel,) allows for hot spring baths and the spa offers all manner of bookable treatments. There’s also a well-stocked gym which is - rather ingeniously- located beneath the courtyard, under a water feature.
Food-wise, The Mitsui has two restaurants, a very high-end Michelin-friendly one called Toki, which specialises in ‘Kyoto-French’ food, and also a more casual Italian spot called Forni. We went all in on the 12-course tasting menu (with wine) at Toki and can confirm that it’s up there with any fine-dining institution on earth. Meanwhile breakfast is served at Forni. Normally I’m a massive advocate of Japanese breakfasts, but in this instance I’d overheard someone saying the Mitsui’s eggs benedict he’d ever tasted so went for those (he was old and I assumed he must have eaten lots of eggs benedict in his life). My instincts were correct: they remain the best eggs benedict I’ve ever eaten.
A stay at Hotel the Mitsui really is something to savour and not rush. Everything about the place has been created with care, and - as is usual in Japan - the beauty is in the detail. In a country that can feel cramped and rushed, Hotel the Mitsui is spacious and unhurried.
Neighbourhood
Hotel the Misui is located in one of Kyoto’s coolest and most pleasant neighbourhoods. While parts of the city can now be massively (and uncomfortably) over subscribed thanks to an increase in tourism, Nijo and Teramachi in the north remain laid-back places, full of local businesses, low-key attractions and friendly people. Calmer and cooler than the busier bits to the south. Staff at Hotel the Mitsui are also happy to go above and beyond with regards to local recommendations, so don’t hesitate to ask for interesting restaurants, cafes and bars.
Nearby
Nijo Castle A 17th-century World Heritage site, this was built by the first shogun of the Edo period. Known for its ‘nightingale floors’ which chirp when walked on.
TanTon An adorable coffee shop which also serves excellent small meals, owned by an elderly couple and loved by locals. An exceptional omurice.
Kyoto Manga Museum Does what it says on the tin. A well-resourced exhibition space, specialising in Japan’s incredible history of comics.
Time Out tip
When the weather allows, staff will open the floor-to-ceiling windows that look out onto the courtyard from the lobby, making it a lovely place to sit with a drink.