Hard to imagine a more blissful context for anything: the rolling fields of Tuscany’s Val d'Orcia region. Frankly you could plonk a corrugated iron bike shed down in this part of the world and it would make for a delightful holiday destination. The fact that Monteverdi is an immaculately and tastefully restored mediaeval village, built onto a secluded hillside, complete with fine-dining options, a heated underground pool, a gym and a balcony bar… well, it’s almost unfair isn’t it?
It would be unfair, also, to describe Monteverdi as ‘what if Aesop did villages’, but that does give some idea how slick, comfortable and tasteful the operation is. Monteverdi was created over a 14-year period, the formerly derelict 1100s hamlet transformed into a kind of high-end hospitality village, featuring a restaurant, a culinary academy, and an ingenious spa and wellness centre. Even the 14th-century church was sensitively restored and reimagined as a performing arts venue. It’s all done with impeccable attention to detail and a sense of harmony that’s tangible in every paving stone, window pane and branded pencil. This is luxury, but it’s luxury inextricably tied to the traditions and aesthetics of the region, a sense reinforced by the fact almost every piece of furniture in the 31 rooms (including three suites) is handmade by locals.
Food is handled by executive chef Riccardo Bacciottini and charismatic Chilean-American legend Giancarla Bodoni (who’s on hand to lead pasta-making workshops and the like), with tons of the produce used grown in Monteverdi’s own garden. The main restaurant Zita, has a fantastic grill and treads a successful line between earthy Tuscan flavours and delicate high-end cooking. A second fine-dining restaurant, Oreade, is set to open in spring 2025.
There’s enough stuff to do (spa treatments, wine tasting, cooking classes, yoga) that it’s easy to fill your days should you want to. But, obviously, the pleasure of staying at a place like this is simply to soak it up and exist in it. It’s easy to see how and why aesthete director Wes Anderson ended up writing a whole screenplay (allegedly The Grand Budapest Hotel) here. You might not create a masterpiece while staying at Monteverdi. But you’ll know how it feels to be in one.
Nearby
The D’Orcia Valley, a Unesco World Heritage Site, is a jaw-dropping place. A shoot location for timeless films like Gladiator, 8 1/2 and The English Patient, the surrounding countryside is full of dreamlike scenery. Hilltop castles, world-famous vineyards and picture-perfect towns will vie for space on your camera roll. In terms of nearby places to visit, the marvellous towns of Montalcino and Pienza are 45-ish minutes west, with the unbeatably brilliant Sienna a bit further along.