The beating heart of European Istanbul, Beyoğlu and its main street, İstiklal Caddesi are visited by millions every day. Once without a doubt the center of the city's nightlife, changes in the past few years have seen other districts steal some of Beyoğlu's buzz, but it remains a vibrant, active area defined by its majestic array of historic buildings, churches, and arcades, while the backstreets are still loaded with bars, cafés, restaurants and meyhanes. Given the hefty number of establishments in Beyoğlu, we've assembled a guide featuring the district's foremost dining, nightlife and attractions. Though it has changed considerably at various intervals over the years, one can still feel the thick air of late 19th century Istanbul passing through its famed streets.
Helmed by acclaimed Swedish-Turkish chef Mehmet Gürs, Mikla is not only one of the best restaurants in Turkey, it's among the best in the world, having been chosen as among the top 50 in 2018. Located atop the hip Marmara Pera Hotel in Beyoğlu, Mikla features sweeping views of the city and a menu with some of the most creative fine-dining cuisine in Istanbul, made with local ingredients and identifiably influenced by both Turkish and Scandinavian techniques.
Duble Meze is where the humble meyhane concept meets the trappings of a fine-dining restaurant. With breathtaking views of the city, Duble serves up modern takes on meze classics and original creations that will tickle even the most jaded palate. The smoked pepper borani with yogurt and pachanga pastry with goat cheese are two of our favourite items on the menu.
Spreading out over three floors in downtown Taksim, Zübeyir Ocakbaşı was opened in 2006 by the grill-master Zübeyir. It has since established a reputation as one of the best grills in Istanbul. The sumptuous ribs, liver and gavurdağı salad go nicely with their legendary kebab dishes. For those with a sweet tooth, we suggest you end your meal with their moreish quince dessert.
Without a doubt one of the most important restaurants in Istanbul, Hacı Abdullah was established in 1888 and licensed by Sultan Abdülhamid II himself. Renowned for its Ottoman fare, Hacı Abdullah remains true to tradition not only with its authentic menu but also in the fact that the waiters and kitchen staff here undergo years of training under an apprenticeship system before being demeed fit for the job. The menu consists of a rich selection of soups, salads, vegetable stews, olive oil dishes, rice dishes, meat selections, desserts and compotes. Since there is no alcohol served, it might be a better idea to stop by for lunch.
Picking up where the iconic Russian restaurant Rejans left off when it shut down following its 80-year run here, 1924 is an eatery that combines the old and the new, paying tribute to its precursor without completely relying on the past. You can't go wrong with classic Russian dishes like borscht soup, beef stroganoff, chicken Kiev and pelmeni dumplings. Round it off with delights from the desserts menu like the chestnut cream profiterole or the moreish honey layered cake. 1924's homemade vodkas make for a great apéritif or digestif and the lemon infused variety is particularly good. If you're feeling adventurous, try the salmon vodka – certainly not for the faint of heart. 1924 is a place to visit for its historic feel as well as its good food.
If you've ever gone to a meyhane with a vegan, you’ll have noticed that our meze culture leaves plenty to be desired in terms of inclusiveness – after all, just about all of our most popular mezes include either cheese or yogurt. This new restaurant in Tomtom is a game-changer for vegans, who’ll have no trouble culling together a mini feast of sorts with mezes like cracked green olives with onions and olive oil and tri-color hummus. Of special note is their vegan İskender, a must-try dish where the thin slices of “meat” made from lentil and flour are served alongside rice yogurt.
The latest venture from Jüpiter Group (whose previous project was the incredibly popular restaurant Grey in Topağacı), Hazine has fast become the new “it” location in Cihangir. The eatery instantly stands out among its neighbors due to its swanky décor and equally trendy menu. Be sure to check out the sushi selection if you happen to visit for dinner, and stay afterwards to enjoy a more club-like atmosphere with live music.
The iconic İnci Pastanesi opened in 1944 on İstiklal Caddesi, quickly becoming famous for its profiteroles and classic interior. In 2012, the gentrification that has driven almost all of the original small business owners on İstiklal also forced İnci to move to a nearby backstreet, abandoning its home of nearly seven decades. Though the new location isn't quite the same, the taste of its heavenly profiteroles hasn't changed in the slightest. As İnci remains open until midnight, it's common practice around Beyoğlu to ditch dessert after dinner and head straight here for the real deal.
Perched on on a side street descending away from the hustle and bustle of İstiklal Caddesi lies Şimdi, a cosy café, bar and restaurant that has weathered the storm and remained on its feet while a number of its neighbors closed down in the past few years. Its endurance is due in no small measure to its laid-back vibe, which makes it a great spot for an early morning coffee or after-work drinks.
Known to be perhaps the go-to jazz bar in Istanbul, Nardis is situated at the foot of the Galata Tower and features live jazz music from local and international acts practically every night. With a capacity of 120, Nardis requires table reservations and is a must for visiting jazz enthusiasts.
Inspired by renowned novelist Orhan Pamuk's novel of the same name, the Museum of Innocence is nestled in the picturesque quarter of Çukurcuma, where much of the book transpires. The countless number of household objects and photographs meticulously collected and displayed in the museum are connected to the bittersweet love story that unfolds in the novel. Taking his cue from the works of Joseph Cornell, Pamuk has arranged these objects into installations and collages housed in custom-built vitrines, which gleam like cabinets of curiosities inside the dimly lit museum. The winner of the European Museum of the Year Award in 2014, the Museum of Innocence is a must-see for readers of the book as well as anyone interested in the cultural and material history of Istanbul. Note that the ticket printed in the closing pages of the novel can be stamped at the ticket booth in exchange for an entrance to the museum.
Initiated by the Vehbi Koç Foundation, Arter is one of Turkey’s leading contemporary art institutions dedicated to exhibiting modern art at the heart of Istanbul. Since opening in 2010, Arter has hosted exhibitions by leading artists from Turkey and abroad, including solo shows by Mona Hatoum, Marc Quinn and the Chapman Brothers. Currently occupying a historic building on İstiklal Caddesi, Arter is slated to move to its new Dolapdere home in 2019 to become a fully fledged contemporart art museum.
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