As a shuk junky, I am unashamed to admit that, until a couple of years ago, I hated Israel’s markets. Walking through the Carmel Market in Tel Aviv was my understanding of hell-on-earth; the grappling, the noise, the pointedly used pointy elbows as people shoved past. However, I wised up eventually, thanks to the following nuggets of advice I picked up along the way. Now I pass them on, to help you shuk-shop in style:
1. Get Your Israeli On
Honey, you aren’t in Kansas anymore. You’re in the Middle East, in the midst of Sabra territory, where people aren’t afraid to fight for what they want. In shuk terms, this translates to pushing, yelling, and general all-round obnoxious behavior. As the saying goes, “If you can’t beat ‘em, join em!”, so don’t hesitate to get stuck in, all’s fair in love and… shopping for veggies.
2. Get a Shuk Cart
Yes, invest in one of those shopping carts most commonly seen at the hands of the…older generations, known locally as a ‘Shuk Cart’. These pensioners know what’s up; it is miserable, not to mention impractical, to shop with heavy plastic bags weighing you down. The carts are roomy, and ensure that you barely feel the weight of your purchases, transforming the shopping experience. Since shuk carts are still a decidedly ‘edgy’ investment, go bold and embrace the lurid colors and tacky prints on offer (I opted for fuchsia.)
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3. Timing is Everything
As a general rule, Israeli markets become increasingly busy towards the weekend (Friday), and are closed on Saturday. So, bargain hunters should swoop in late-afternoon on Friday for some last minute deal haggling. Earlier in the week is the best time to avoid the crowds, as are early mornings, 9:30/10:00ish.
© Melissa Avrick
4. Discover Kerem Hateimanim
For shuk novices, the Carmel Market is perhaps the most accessible, which does not mean that you must stick to the main thoroughfare. The Yemenite neighborhood ‘Kerem Hateimain’ runs parallel to the market, and is considered by locals to be an extension of the shuk. Here, you can find the same produce, in a far calmer setting, alongside foodie hidden gems, in the form of local eateries. To get started, head to Shlomo & Doron (29 Yishkon Street), a family run business selling delectable hummus.
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5. Bargains at Betzalel
Shuks are not solely for food, they can also help you to clothes shop on a budget. Shuk Betzalel, located just down the road from the Carmel Market on King George Street, is a bustling bazaar hiding major finds. For men, good old v-necked tees and trendy drop-crotch pants, for the ladies, pom-pom adornments and ripped jeans galore. At these prices, you can afford to experiment. Plus, the vendors are happy to chat, and are full of interesting stories.
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6. Explore!
Shuk, nay, life, rule #1 is to not be afraid to explore. Wandering down the side streets, tasting funky-looking produce, and seeking the advice of the vendors will enhance your shopping experience. Additionally, stray into other, lesser-known markets. Shuk Levinsky in Florentin is the best spot for dried fruits and spices, and full of interesting foodie goodies. Check out Cafe Levinsky 41 for Gazoz, a fruity, sparkling drink to keep you hydrated as you browse. Hatikva Market in South Tel Aviv is gloriously spacious, with a vibrant meat market, great bakeries, and a decidedly calmer and more authentic feel.
© Lindy Kawalsky
Now that you know the tricks of trade, it's time to acquaint yourselves with the Top five people you'll find at the Shuk.