Pinisi Resto
Photograph: Shutterstock
Photograph: Shutterstock

The ultimate guide to Bandung

Things to do, eat, and shop for in and around West Java’s romantic capital city

Cheryl Sekkappan
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Known as the Paris of Java and Flower City, Bandung is a popular weekend destination for Jakartans escaping the heat and crowds. Located 768 metres above sea level, the West Javan capital city has enviably cool weather, with rolling tea plantations and scenic nature on its doorstep. In the centre and further out towards the east coast, you’ll find more cultural gems and, of course, irresistible local cuisine. 

In November, we had the fantastic opportunity to check out Bandung and its surroundings via a new Scoot flight between Singapore and Kertajati Airport. With this added accessibility (it’s also easy to reach via Jakarta), there’s really no time like the present to pay Bandung a visit. Without further ado, here are all the favourite things we did, saw, and ate in and around the charming city. 

READ MORE: The best places to visit in Indonesia and The best things to do in Bali

Time Out’s trip was courtesy of Scoot and the West Java Tourism Board 

Getting to Bandung

From Singapore

If you’re based in Singapore, then here’s some good news: Scoot (the low-cost subsidiary of Singapore Airlines) has launched a new direct flight between Singapore Changi Airport and Kertajati International Airport. It takes less than two hours between the cities, making it an attractive weekend getaway from Singapore. 

The new route is serviced by Scoot’s new Embraer E190-E2 jet, a smaller plane that’s said to be more fuel-efficient – and quieter, too (which we found true). The plane has a 2-2 seat layout, so it’s narrow, but the feel of new and squeaky clean seats, plus the generous legroom, more than makes up for it. 

From Kertajati International Airport, it takes around 1.5 hours by car to reach Bandung city. It’s a drive, but we’d recommend making pitstops in other parts of West Java (like Cirebon) on the way. 

From Jakarta

If you’re not based in Singapore or have no plans to swing by the hub, there’s also a 45-minute express train from Jakarta to Bandung. There are over 15 train trips from Gambir Station to Bandung every day. 

Things to do in Bandung

1. Museum KAA

To understand the historical significance of Bandung, start here. Itself a beautiful Art Deco building, Museum KAA is dedicated to the 1955 Bandung Conference, when leaders from Asia and Africa gathered in the city to forge economic and cultural ties and envision a post-colonial world.

There’s lots for history buffs to pore over: images, newspaper clippings, and videos capturing the struggles for independence in the aftermath of WWII and the midst of the Cold War, the historic conference, plus a plaque commemorating the Ten Bandung Principles, a framework for the quality of all races and nations. You can step into a bit of history yourself at the Gedung Merdeka (independence building), the grand hall that served as the conference venue. 

2. Gedung Sate

Here’s a fun fact: Gedung Sate translates to “satay building”, a cheeky reference to the meat skewer-like feature at the pinnacle of the building. Besides this architectural quirk, the Gedung Sate features a spectacular mix of influences from Buddhism, Hinduism, Islam, and Christianity, reflecting Indonesia’s long history and diverse cultures. Today, the Gedung Sate is a functioning government building and the seat of West Java’s governor. However, you can visit the museum in the basement, where you can learn about Bandung’s colonial history through in-depth labels, interactive installations, and augmented reality experiences. 

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3. Braga Street

Intersecting Jalan Asia Afrika (where Museum KAA sits) is the youthful and lively Braga Street. If you’re like us, you’ll return again and again to check out the numerous cafés, restaurants, and art galleries that line this street. We loved the kuehs and snacks from Lekker Bakery and the coffee from Filosofi Coffee (which starred in a movie of the same name). At night is when the street comes alive though – dine at Restaurant Bomie, owned by the Indonesian band Dewa 19, or take the opportunity to pop into a bar for live music and drinks. After all, it’s the only street in Bandung where establishments can sell alcohol. Make it a Saturday too – that’s when Braga Street goes car-free. 

4. Saung Angklung Udjo

Meaning ‘Udjo’s House of Angklung’, Saung Angklung Udjo is a must-visit for a masterclass in Sundanese musical culture and traditions. Established in 1966, this school and performance house is where you can catch a three-hour performance centred on the angklung, a bamboo musical instrument that originated with the highland people of West Java. Watch Wayang Golek (a wooden puppet show), mask dances, and ethnic dances from around Indonesia. You'll even participate in a mass angklung performance (our favourite). 

Don’t forget to visit the workshop across the street to see how the angklung is tuned and crafted. You might even meet Pak Rahmad, a master craftsman who’s been making angklungs there since 1976.

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5. Kawah Putih

We were surprised to learn that Bandung is surrounded by 14 active volcanoes. With that risk comes reward – ideal conditions for tea cultivation and gorgeous natural attractions. One that’s relatively easy to access is Kawah Putih (or White Crater), an enchanting crater lake about two hours out from Bandung city in Ciwidey town. We say ‘easy’ because you can drive or take a shuttle almost all the way up to the crater lake. From the carpark, it’s an easy 10-minute walk to the shores of the turquoise-coloured lake, backdropped by Mount Patuha itself. For the best experience, come early to catch the sunrise – we hear the morning mists and brightening skies make for a rather magical experience. 

6. Patenggang Lake

After visiting Kawah Putih, take a drive through rolling tea plantations down to Patenggang Lake. You can’t miss Pinisi Resto, a massive restaurant shaped like a boat that’s beached on the lake’s shore. It’s worth a visit for the little thrill of crossing the rope bridge to the restaurant, as well as the commanding views of the lake from the boat’s decks – we definitely snapped a handful of pictures at the bow. You can also take part in flying fox adventures, boat tours, strawberry picking activities, and glamping experiences around the lake. 

What to eat in Bandung

1. Paskal Food Market

This is hands-down the best foodie spot in Bandung. There are supposedly '1100 menu items' at this sprawling open-air food market, but the stall you should make a beeline for is Iga Bakar Si Jangkung. This viral Tik Tok and YouTube sensation serves up sizzling clay pots of beef or lamb tossed in kecap manis (a sweet soy sauce you'll find at every Indonesian table), tomatoes, and spices. It's smoky, tender, and just the right balance of sweet and spicy – the perfect combination with rice.

Elsewhere in the food market, you'll find traditional eats like nasi goreng and soto betawi; new-fangled dishes like Wagyu beef plates and malatang; and stuff for those with a sweet tooth, like bolu bakar tunggal from Tunggal Bakery (seriously sinful pancakes with butter sugar and other fillings). 

2. Soeji Dining

Want a meal with a view? Head to Soeji Dining in Chanaya Resort. Granted, this requires a 30-minute journey from Bandung city, but thankfully, there's lots to occupy you here besides a fine Indonesian meal. The best seats in the house are on the open-air deck overlooking the surrounding hills, where you can enjoy dishes like nasi campur and ayam goreng kempiri with a cool mountain breeze. 

The fun part: the funicular. Take it down the mountainside for a glimpse of glamping pods (soon to open), an urban farm and garden, and to reach more dining and retail options at the base. We visited a gallery with a shop selling adorable stickers and knick-knacks and checked out a small café where they roast their own beans for filtered brews and espresso-based drinks. Try the cascara soda, a refreshing tea-like beverage made from coffee bean skins. 

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3. Sultan Agung

Walk around Bandung, and you'll see Dutch influence everywhere—in its buildings, its signage, and yes, even in the food. One spot to try Dutch-inspired cuisine is Sultan Agung, where traditional dishes like ayam rebus and pisang goreng are served alongside Dutch classics like bitterballen and poffertjes. But the star is the Sultan Chicken Rice, a signature dish comprising juicy chicken marinated in a special blend of aromatic spices, served with onion sambal, and white rice. This is also quite a picturesque spot, with European-style windows and planters forming the interior. 

Where to shop in Bandung

1. Kartika Sari

We went to Kartika Sari on a single mission: to buy pisang bollen, a must-try in Bandung. Call it a banana-stuffed croissant, if you will, but that's what this flaky, buttery pastry will remind you of. The classic pisang bollen is filled with ripe bananas and a cheese cube, though there are variations with bananas and chocolate. We recommend eating it on the spot while it's steaming hot. But it also survived a flight back to Singapore and up to four days in the fridge – we just popped it in the oven every time we craved a bite. 

While you're there, grab some classic Indonesian snacks as souvenirs, from shrimp crackers to tempeh chips. 

2. Bolu Susu Lembang

Complete your Kartika Sari haul with a visit to Bolu Susu Lembang next door. This chain is special to West Java (with eight outlets across the region at the time of writing), and it serves up super soft and milky cakes in various flavours. Our favourite is the classic, a two-layer vanilla and chocolate confection topped with cheese shavings; but there are red velvet, double chocolate, and even avocado flavours to try. This is another one we had to bring back home to share. 

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3. Mantera Rattan

If you have the time to make a detour to Cirebon, visit Mantera Rattan. This shop specialises in products made from rattan, both natural rattan that's been sourced from Sumatra, Sulawesi, and Borneo and synthetic rattan. Everything here is masterfully handmade, from dainty sunhats and handbags to full living room sets (chairs, tables, and all). Mantera Rattan also conducts rattan weaving workshops, where you can try making baskets from synthetic rattan (which is easier on the hands) for IDR 70,000 each. 

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