Landing in Keflavik on a frosty 2C afternoon is a bit of a shock to the system compared to the balmy October temperatures of the UK, but once we start winding through the snow-dusted, ash-coloured peaks that loom moodily over Iceland’s coast, the biting cold feels appropriate.
Thankfully, the nippy feeling doesn’t last long. ION’s collection of hotels includes four properties – ION City and Hotel Von (starting rates are €430 and €175 respectively) where we stay in Reykjavik, Hotel Budir (from €277), our first stop nestled cosily between the mountains and the lapping shore of the Snaefellsnes Peninsula, and ION Adventure (€565) which is celebrating its tenth anniversary in 2024. Each embody the Nordic concept of ‘hygge’, that feeling of convivial cosiness that you can only really experience in such perishingly cold places.
All are intrinsically Icelandic, but ION Adventure is the true show-stopper. A sleek glass box emerging from the moss-laden Mount Hengill, the hotel is a bold contrast to the tumbling volcanic landscape around it. But that landscape is still incorporated into the design, with furniture made from locally-sheered wool and actual lava. Sustainability is at the heart of these designs – even the sinks are made from recycled tires – and much of the interior is crafted by Icelandic architects. The hallway leading to the brand-new wing of 23 rooms (where we stayed) features bare concrete walls which will not be painted – paint is bad for the environment, guys – and the whole place is powered by geothermal energy. But don’t be fooled: this is far from a sterile, lab-like eco-project, and that’s what’s so impressive.
Despite the sheer volume of windows reminding you of the snow-covered landscape, ION Adventure exudes snugness. From the plush bedding and sheepskin throws to the warmly lit rooms and candle-filled restaurant, there’s an excellent balance of high-end and homely running throughout the place.
The menu at Silfra, ION Adventure’s restaurant, is also a showcase of the local environment. The emphasis here is on ‘slow food’, and the dishes, designed by coach of the Icelandic culinary team Snædís Xyza Mae Ocampo, are made from ingredients like locally-sourced lamb, Icelandic char and leeks.
We’re here at the end of October, a time where the sun only teeters above the horizon for a short period. But this is the beginning of the peak time to see the Northern Lights, and ION Adventure is a spot primed to capture them at their most glorious. Behind the glass facade of the hotel is its award-winning Northern Lights Bar, which offers panoramic views of the pitch-black valley, and below the concrete stilts of the main building is its alfresco geothermal pool, where you can soak in steamy water and enjoy the starry show. My tip? Pair it with an in-house cocktail (I recommend anything with locally-grown rhubarb).
Neighbourhood
Nesjavellir is a valley within Thingvellir National Park, and the hotel overlooks Iceland’s largest lake on one side and a geothermal power plant on the other. While that might not sound like the most scenic fixture, the steam which billows out of the nearby plant adds even more mysterious, wintery atmosphere to the already drama-filled landscape.
Nearby
- Hvammsvik Hot Springs comprise eight geothermally heated pools which meander towards the shore of Hvalfjörður (the ‘Whale Fjord’ in southwest Iceland) and vary in temperature. Warm up in the sauna, dunk in the sea, and then work your way through the pools to the bar hatch.
- The Silfra Fissure is where the North American meets the Eurasian tectonic plate, and you can snorkel in between them (this place is the inspo for the restaurant’s name).
- Sumac If you venture into Reykjavik for an evening, this Michelin Guide Lebanese restaurant and grill should be on your radar for dinner – the shishito peppers and grilled plaice were menu standouts.
Time Out tip
ION Adventure works closely with MeTimeIceland, a yoga and mindfulness event organiser who arrange everything from tranquil, pre-sunrise yoga sessions to hikes around the valley. A co-founder of the platform, Katrin, led us through both, and gave bags of insightful context about the environment and landscape (which is handy when there’s a disconcerting amount of boiling water bubbling out of the ground). If you can, book onto one of their hikes.