Sha Tau Kok
Photograph: Jenny Leung
Photograph: Jenny Leung

Sha Tau Kok: Ultimate guide

Experience the untouched charm of this border town

Jenny Leung
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Nestled along Hong Kong's northern coast, Sha Tau Kok is a little border town that shares a boundary with Shenzhen's Yantian District. For decades, it has been a part of the Frontier Closed Area, meaning access was tightly controlled and off-limits to non-residents. But now, its veil of mystery is slowly lifting, and folks with the proper permits can venture out to explore this once-isolated village. Whether you're a history buff, a nature lover, or just simply want to enjoy a day of relaxation and discovery, read on to see why this place is well worth a visit.

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EAT / DO / SHOP / LANDMARKS

What is Sha Tau Kok known for?

The most unique part of Sha Tau Kok is undoubtedly Chung Ying Street, a singular thoroughfare that straddles the border between Hong Kong and Mainland China. This street, which is currently still restricted to non-residents, is jointly administered by the HKSAR government and Shenzhen authorities, allowing residents from both sides to operate businesses, shop, and freely roam around. 

Why do we love it?

It's the peacefulness of it all that really captured us. Visiting Sha Tau Kok feels like stepping into an old village that, thankfully, has remained distant from the chaos of urban life. A true escape from the bustling city.

How do I get to Sha Tau Kok?

First and foremost, you'll need to apply for a Tourism Closed Area Permit, which can be obtained through the Hong Kong Police Force online applications platform. This process can take anywhere from one to three days, so it's important to get the permit lined up before your trip.

Once you have the necessary paperwork, the only way to access Sha Tau Kok is via public transportation (sorry, no Ubers). You can take the 78S or 78K KMB bus route from Sheung Shui or Fanling MTR station, or hop on the 277A KMB bus route from Lam Tin MTR station. There is also a 55K minibus available going from Sheung Shui MTR station. For all of the routes mentioned above, you can get on and sit tight til the very last stop to reach Sha Tau Kok.

Be sure to have your permit and ID card ready once you reach the Sha Tau Kok Terminus, as there will be police officers checking credentials when you arrive. Once that’s done, it’s time to get exploring.

Map of Sha Tau Kok

If you only do one thing 

Try the Hakka cuisine and other local delicacies – some of them you’ll only get to try in Sha Tau Kok!

A guide to visiting Sha Tau Kok

Where to eat in Sha Tau Kok

The food options at Sha Tau Kok can be limited, but you definitely won’t have to go hungry. One of the main places you can head to is the cooked food centre at Sha Tau Kok Market, where you’ll find around eight eateries each offering a different menu ranging from traditional Hakka cuisine to usual cha chaan teng bites. Browse around to see what you want to eat and take a seat at any of the tables. We recommend ordering from Tang Kee and trying their Hakka dishes like marinated chicken with Hakka-style preserved vegetables; ginger and vinegar duck; and the Hakka-style ‘three stuffed treasures’ (tofu, eggplant, and bitter melon).

Photograph: Jenny Leung | Golden Prosperous Cuisine (Hoi San Restaurant)

For more Hakka bites, find your way to Golden Prosperous Cuisine (Hoi San Restaurant) and order the Hakka-style pork bowl, a nostalgic delicacy cooked by steaming over a wood-burning stove for long hours. The rich flavours of the sauce and the tenderness of the pork go perfectly with a bowl of hot fluffy rice.

Photograph: Jenny Leung | Corner Cafe

If you’re not so much of an adventurous eater, head to Corner Cafe along San Lau Street to indulge in items like burgers, all-day breakfast, Hong Kong-style baked rice, pasta, and more.

As for those of you who are just looking for something to snack on, visit the small stationery shop next door to Hoi San to try some cha kwo (sticky rice dumplings); head to Kam Yuen Store for an ice-cold cup of slushie or bubble tea; or make room for the famous deep-fried shredded radish cake at Fong Kee.

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Things to do in Sha Tau Kok

Walk along the promenade and gaze out to the beautiful Starling Inlet from the Sun and Moon Pavilion to see the gentle waves lapping against the docked fishing boats – a scene so serene that it could be mistaken for a computer screensaver.

As you stroll further south, you'll reach the Sha Tau Kok Public Pier, said to be the longest in Hong Kong stretching an impressive 280 meters. Once you're there, get yourself a Wish Fish ($20) from the nearby vending machine. Scribble your wishes on top and tie it to the pier's railings to make your dreams come true! Remember to bring a marker with you though, otherwise, you’ll have to shell out $30 for a pen from the machine.

Photograph: Jenny Leung | Wish Fish tied to railings at the pier

Along the pier, you’ll be able to see murals painted by local primary school students covering the walls, as well as seats where you can sit and stare out to the open sea. If you have time to spare, you can even go island-hopping to nearby gems like Kat O and Ap Chau, just a short 20-30 minute journey away.

Photograph: Jenny Leung | Stone plaque at the Cape of Sha Tau Kok

Be sure to also take a photo at the Cape of Sha Tau Kok, the easternmost corner of the area where there’s a stone plaque with poetic verses etched onto it: “The sun rises from the beach (Sha Tau), the moon hangs above the cape (Kok)”. Legend has it that the verses were penned by a Qing dynasty minister, enthralled by the stunning scenery during his visit to the Guangdong coast. Since then, the area has been known as Sha Tau Kok.

Photograph: Jenny Leung | Sha Tau Kok Story House

Finally, delve into the fascinating history of neighbourhood by visiting the Sha Tau Kok Story House, a heritage museum housed in a traditional terraced shophouse. Opened in 2018, the museum invites visitors to explore the community's storied past by showcasing a collection of artefacts ranging from ancient books and tools to traditional seashell windows.

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Where to shop in Sha Tau Kok

While a shopping spree may be off the table in Sha Tau Kok, the dried seafood ‘street’ inside the Sha Tau Kok Market offers some fishy souvenirs (many of which are homemade) for visitors to take home and try. You can also find local snacks there like handmade rice crackers, a must-have for Hoklo families during the festive season. 

Photograph: Jenny Leung | A small shop selling a range of Sha Tau Kok souvenirs

Aside from food, you can also get your hands on themed postcards featuring the winning entries of the Sha Tau Kok Photo and Video Competition from the Sha Tau Kok Post Office. Or, visit the small shop opposite the corner of San Lau Street which sells postcards and a few other tidbits as souvenirs.

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Landmarks in Sha Tau Kok

When you get off the bus at the Sha Tau Kok Terminus, the first thing you’ll notice is the large mural along Shun Ping Street depicting the deity-thanking ceremony, a cherished cultural event that is still celebrated today in Sha Tau Kok.

Photograph: Jenny Leung | The 'Salmon House'

Another thing that will definitely catch your eye is the clusters of colourful houses, adorned in shades of purple, pink, green, and orange. Because of its colour and white horizontal stripes, the orange housing block in particular has earned itself the affectionate nickname of ‘Salmon House’.

Sitting beside the orange houses is the old Sha Tau Kok Fire Station, a local landmark that has proudly preserved its original appearance since 1962. Take a snap by the station's distinctive red gates, uniquely shorter than typical designs, and catch a glimpse of the century-old fire-fighting hand cart exhibited at the station's entrance.  

Photograph: Jenny Leung | A 1:1 replica of a retro train model

On the other side, adjacent to the Chung Ying Street Garden, sits a retro railway station replica complete with an actual-size locomotive model and a station wall to make for a fun photo spot for visitors. There is also a viewing deck in the garden where visitors can see residents walking along Chung Ying Street, which is currently still off-limits for non-resident visitors. 

Photograph: Jenny Leung | A T-shaped street sign found on the exterior of old shophouses

Wandering Sha Tau Kok, you'll also notice old T-shaped street signs from the early 20th century, of which fewer than 80 remain in Hong Kong. Three of them can be found in Sha Tau Kok, including San Lau Street, Car Park Street (now written as Che Ping Street), and Yim Liu Ha. These nostalgic markers, along with the area's rare verandah-style shophouses, offer a glimpse into Sha Tau Kok's history.

Photograph: Jenny Leung | Sha Tau Kok's auspicious elephant sculptures

Finally, before you leave Sha Tau Kok, be sure to touch the auspicious elephant sculptures sitting in front of an eye-catching archway at the entrance of the Shun Hing Street housing estate. It is believed that touching the one with its trunk up brings wealth while touching the one with its trunk down helps preserve it. 

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