Kowloon Walled City Park
Photograph: Shutterstock
Photograph: Shutterstock

Kowloon City: Ultimate guide

From the city’s best Thai restaurants to trendy themed cafes, follow our guide to discover the best of Kowloon City.

Ann Chiu
Translated by: Jenny Leung
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Kowloon City is Hong Kong's own little slice of Thailand, home to some of the best Thai restaurants around. But if you spend a day exploring the neighbourhood, you’ll quickly realise it has so much more to offer – from local delicacies to traditional desserts to trendy cafes perfect for your next Instagram post. After you’ve stuffed yourself silly, you can walk off the calories by exploring historic parks like the Kowloon Walled City Park or even go on a shopping spree at the swanky Airside shopping mall. All this plus the anticipated opening of Kai Tak Sports Park (soon to host Coldplay for three shows!), Kowloon City offers a dose of art and culture, nature, history, and a refreshing escape from the city’s glitzy hustle. 

What is Kowloon City known for?

Once home to Hong Kong’s iconic Kai Tak Airport – famous for its low-flying planes that skimmed residential rooftops – this neighbourhood boasts a rich aviation legacy that still evokes nostalgia today. Though the airport hung up its wings in 1998, Kowloon City has since transformed into a vibrant hub, attracting a young and creative crowd on the hunt for hidden gems and a taste of the past.

Why do we love it?

Laid-back yet always buzzing, Kowloon City is where history meets modernity at every turn. Picture historic parks sitting alongside sleek new malls and century-old shops reinvented as Instagram-worthy cafes. What’s not to love?

How do I get to Kowloon City?

While there are a number of buses and minibuses that will easily get you to Kowloon City, your best bet is the MTR. Head straight to Sung Wong Toi station to reach the heart of Kowloon City, or hop off at Kai Tak station and work your way around the neighbourhood. 

Map of Kowloon City

The ultimate guide to Kowloon City

Where to eat in Kowloon City

As Hong Kong’s mini Thailand, Kowloon City boasts an impressive array of Thai restaurants where you can indulge in authentic flavours. First up, head to Peelong Thai Traditional for its genuine southern Thai dishes. You’ll have to try their signatures like pad thai, curry crab, tom yum soup, and sweet green curry chicken! Another favourite is Cheong Fat, which has been a neighbourhood staple for over 20 years. Originally a Thai grocery, it now serves a wide range of Thai noodles and snacks that keep locals coming back for more.

For something unique, check out Chao Phraya, named after Bangkok’s main river. This trendy spot offers delicious seafood dishes and creative options like pumpkin curry soft-shell crab, served in a hollowed-out pumpkin. And if you’re just feeling a little peckish, Kam Thai is the place to go for satay skewers. Everything is grilled to order and you’ll often find long lines of hungry patrons during peak hours. Be sure to try their Thai pork sausage and their secret dipping sauces!

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No need to fret if Thai food isn’t your thing, Kowloon City also has everything from cha chaan tengs to hotpot restaurants. For a fun, retro vibe, check out Happy Together Hotpot. With decor from the ’60s and ’70s, it’s a great spot for a steaming meal. And if you want quality meats, Woocow Hotpot is known for its homemade hotpot ingredients and MSG-free broth. For lighter bites and local flavours, head to Shun Hing on Yau Chuen Wai Road for their milk tea, pineapple buns, and egg tarts. And you can’t mention cha chaan tengs without Lok Yuen. This long-standing spot in Kowloon City serves up all the classics such as HK-style milk tea, red bean ice, and French toast, alongside new creative dishes to entice a younger crowd.

Others seeking international cuisine can try Sanwa Jo, which offers traditional Japanese dishes like sushi, teppanyaki, robatayaki, and washoku. For pizza lovers, Mama Mia! Pizzeria serves up fresh, handmade thin-crust pizzas, and they occasionally introduce Hong Kong-style flavours too, such as a typhoon shelter seafood pizza and a cilantro pizza (yes, they exist). Last but by no means least, Islam Food has to be on your list. People come from all corners of Hong Kong for a helping of pan-fried beef buns which are made Halal. They also come here for the lamb curry and beef brisket noodles. Cheap as chips and tasty as hell if you are willing to wait. There's a reason why it's been around for over 30 years.

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End your day on a sweet note with desserts! Hop Shing Dessert, also known as the ‘king of lotus seeds’, has been a local favourite for over 60 years. Since moving to Kowloon City in 1997, they’ve been serving Chaozhou-style sweet soups with celebrities like Choi Lan and Chow Yun-fat as regulars. We also love the silky tofu pudding and fresh soy milk at Yee Heung. Their tofu pudding is super smooth, and the soy milk comes in sweet or unsweetened options. And don’t miss the egg tarts at Queen Sophie. Founded by former singer Wong Po-hin, this place is famous for its handmade flaky tarts baked with over 300 layers of pastry!

Cafes in Kowloon City

Tai Wo Tang is one of the first modern cafes to breathe life into Kowloon City. Originally a traditional Chinese medicine shop that opened in 1932, the space was transformed into a stylish cafe with elements like antique cabinets and old signage still preserved. Alongside classic coffee and light bites, you'll find local twists like egg waffles with fried chicken – definitely a must-try.

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Be sure to also check out Nan Kok. Housed in an 80-year-old pre-war tenement building, this space was once a beloved hardware store. Its original ornate iron gate and wooden facade have been retained with the old sign prominently displayed at the centre. Outside is a small round table offering a relaxing spot for pets and their hoomans.

Also embracing the nostalgic vibe is Yukkuri, which showcases Japanese craftsmanship and vintage culture through food and utensils. From its vintage oak front door to the collection of fascinating antiques neatly displayed on wooden tables and shelves, walking into Yukkuri feels as though you’re stepping into a museum. Towards the back of the shop is a quaint tea room with limited seating. The menu is focused yet refined, offering set meals, homemade red bean toast, teas, and other vegan options.

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For top-notch coffee, check out Rings Coffee, a cosy nook offering an array of well-brewed java including their signature house blend which uses a mix of Colombian and Costa Rican beans. They also serve cheesy milk-capped drinks and thoughtfully prepared dishes like all-day breakfast and avocado toast.

And if you're looking for an indulgent meal, head to Yoi Coffee & Bakery. With its eye-catching yellow door and minimalist decor, Yoi is where you’ll find freshly baked breads and in-house roasted coffee beans. Don’t miss their cream puffs, bagels, and a mouthwatering smoked chilli pulled pork burger with fries.

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Things to do in Kowloon City

A shiny new landmark in Kowloon City, Airside opened its doors in September 2023. Designed by the internationally acclaimed architecture firm Snøhetta, this impressive 700,000sq ft complex features a vibrant shopping mall that offers everything from restaurants and cosy cafes to trendy retail shops and exciting entertainment venues – including an indoor surfing restaurant!

If you prefer to connect with nature or delve into a bit of history, Kowloon City has plenty to offer. Explore Kowloon City Walled Park, which stands on the former site of the notorious Kowloon Walled City; as well as Sun Wong Toi Park, home to the historic Sung Wong Toi Inscription Rock.

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Be sure to also check out the Stone Houses Family Garden, featuring a block of old Chinese-style residences built after WWII. Visit the houses to see the unique architecture and gain insight into life in the 1940s, then pop along to its themed cafe and relax with a cup of java. 

Don't forget to leave some time for a visit to the Hau Wong Temple. While there is no shortage of traditional Chinese temples in Hong Kong, this one is particularly worth visiting. Now a declared monument, the historic site is said to have been built in the 18th century and is especially remarkable for its collection of relics that can be traced back to the garrison of the Kowloon Walled City. On the walls, you’ll also find Chinese calligraphy and plaques that date back centuries.

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