Cycling route: Tuen Ma Line

The Yuen Long cycle interchange is located behind Yoho Mall (approximately ten minutes walk away) by the Yuen Long Town Cycling Entry/Exit Hub. Here, bicycle contractors rent out road bikes, mountain bikes, and children’s bikes which can be returned in Sheung Shui or Tai Po, among other places. Before your departure, remember to read the map clearly, and navigate with your phone. It helps to pay attention to the colour of the bicycle track too. The main line connecting the districts is a red bicycle track, while the track within the district is green. By distinguishing the colours, you’ll stay on track and will be less likely to get lost.

There are many well-known restaurants in Yuen Long, so it’s worth taking time to enjoy a light meal before heading out. Originally a takeout shop in West Kowloon, The Glock is famous for selling homemade mochi. The restaurant is now in Yuen Long and offers dine-in too. The Japanese-style shop is simple and you can sit comfortably. In addition to mochi, there are other desserts such as cake rolls, Japanese dango and sweet pumpkin soup with sweet potato balls. The kuzumochi is particularly surprising. Soft, sweet, and refreshing, the Japanese dessert comes with roasted soy or matcha powder, and can be dipped in brown sugar condensed milk.

After leaving central Yuen Long, and cycling for 30 minutes, you will arrive at Fung Kat Heung, a Hakka village located near Au Tau on Old Castle Peak Road in Yuen Long. There is a Grade II historic building, where the Chinese general Shen Hong-ying escaped from Hong Kong after his defeat in the early Republic of China, and lived in seclusion with his family and relatives. Shen Hong-ying changed the name of this village to Fung Kat, to represent every bit of bad luck turning into good luck. The four characters (宣威馳譽) by Chinese politician Li Yuan-hong still hang in the living room of the general’s house.

The General’s House has a history of nearly 90 years. It comprises three connecting houses, the Shum Ancestral Hall, the General’s House, and Hip Wai House, with a total of two floors. The descendants of the Shum family still live here, so if you are lucky, you may even meet some of the descendants of the Shum family who will share the real and genuinely touching stories about the lives of these historical figures.

Soon after leaving Fung Kat Heung, you will come across Kam Tin River. This section of the cycling track is probably the most beautiful of the entire route from Yuen Long to Sheung Shui. Although the tall railings on the cycling track are quite unsightly, you can still take in the view of the magnificent mountains and the egrets (or herons) feeding on the water. Views of Kam Tin River will differ from each angle and at different times and seasons – from the peace and quiet of winter to nature thriving during spring and summer, not to mention the reflection of dusk’s golden glow, which is especially a sight for sore eyes.

After going northbound through Yau Tam Mei and Palm Springs, you will arrive at Mai Po. The Mai Po Nature Reserve requires application in advance to enter, but cyclists can take the Tam Kon Chau Road on the Mai Po border and look out in front of the restricted area. There are freshwater ponds and marshes on both sides, with many migratory birds to watch.

The best bird-watching season is from autumn to spring and there are more than 400 species of migratory birds in the reserve, such as small egrets, great egrets, and endangered species of black-faced spoonbills. Here, you can stop to enjoy the sight of these birds as they spread their wings and fly high above you.

It takes about 45 minutes from Mai Po to San Tin. Villagers in Wing Ping Tsuen are very accustomed to cyclists coming and going here. Many foreigners will also visit the village’s cha chaan tengs. Soon after entering the village, you will see a large area of ​​grassland and an ancient mansion sat in the middle of it. Built in the Qing Dynasty, Tai Fu Tai was the mansion of Man Chung-luen, whose ancestors originated from Sichuan, and settled in San Tin, Yuen Long since the 15th century. He was also the 21st generation descendant of the Man clan and was bestowed the title of ‘tai fu’ or senior official.

Tai Fu Tai is known as one of the most magnificent traditional buildings in Hong Kong. It truly reflects the architectural characteristics of the traditional mansions of the scholar-gentry class in southern China. The main building is a two-in-three-room layout with rooms in the wing on both sides of the patio. Separated by a promenade, there is a garden bridge and fish pond in the front courtyard, and it’s really nice to take a break here.

San Tin Shopping City is definitely a good midway station for cyclists. The shopping city is an industrial-style outdoor mall with shops, restaurants, snack stores, auto part shops, and pet shops designed to look like individual containers. Some restaurants have bicycle parking spaces and there is even an auto parts shop with an exterior wall decorated like the Fujiwara Tofu shop in the popular anime series Initial D, which acts as a big photo booth for visitors and fans.

Just around the corner, about ten minutes away from San Tin Shopping City, is Man Tin Cheung Park. Occupying 20,000 hectares, the memorial park honours Man Tin Cheung, a Chinese poet and patriot who is considered one of the three heroes of the Song Dynasty. His poem, the Song of Righteousness, is inscribed on a plaque behind a six-metre tall bronze statue of him along with the Song of the Spirit of Resistance which depict the life of the famed poet. 

This section from San Tin to Kwu Tung in Sheung Shui is much longer, and part of it runs just beside the highway, so you’ll need to ride by cars. The villagers used to irrigate farmland in Kwu Tung Reservoir, but now it is used by the Hong Kong Flying Service to hold water to fight wildfires. The environment of the pond is beautiful, especially in spring when it is full of greenery. Many hikers and cyclists come here to relax, so you can enjoy a break here.

After Kwu Tung, go towards the city centre of Sheung Shui. Here, you can visit one of the oldest markets in Hong Kong: Shek Wu Hui, which has small stalls and stores, herbal tea shops, and restaurants. In recent years, small shops selling local products, handcrafted art, and traditional items have joined the market. There is a big banyan tree in the market that provides shelter and also houses a Temple of the Earth. It is said that the temple has a history of more than 70 years.

After the whole journey, you will of course want to get a good meal in you. And since you’re exploring New Territories, you may as well walk a short distance (about 10 minutes) from Shek Wu Hui Market to ATMA, a cafe in Sheung Shui Wai for a bite to eat. The coffee shop is actually in a village house with a few tables outside, surrounded by flowers and small trees. The upstairs space holds workshops and screenings from time to time to create a community platform.

The Sheung Shui cycle interchange is located on San Wan Road about seven minutes walk from Sheung Shui Railway Station. It is just behind the Jockey Club betting branch, which is very convenient.