Sentimental fillings: Gyoza AnD’s executive chef Obara Gen and his soft spot for gyoza

As part of our annual Time Out Recommended campaign, we’ve put together a list of what we think are the best dining establishments in the city to share with our readers. This year, one of the venues that caught our eye was Gyoza AnD, a casual Japanese eatery based in Central. While Hong Kong has heaps of restaurants serving all kinds of Japanese cuisine, this particular venue stood out to us because of its inviting atmosphere, comforting dishes that go wonderfully with an ice-cold beer, and friendly hospitality – it’s the kind of place where you and your friends can let your hair down after a long day of work. We caught up with the restaurant’s executive chef, Obara Gen, to discover his passion for gyoza and his mission to introduce Hong Kong diners to this beloved Japanese dish.

Situated on Wellington Street and managed by 298 Nikuya – proprietors of venues such as Porker and Birdie – Gyoza AnD specialises in serving authentic Japanese gyozas. The eatery pays homage to Gyoza An, a family-run dumpling shop that has been in Tokyo’s Sengoku neighbourhood since 1979, owned by the father of the dining group’s founder.

Inspired by stories about the original Gyoza An, Gen, who was primarily a yakiniku chef, reached out to the matriarch of the Tokyo restaurant to learn the ins and outs of gyoza-making. “I had to keep practising again and again because it was so difficult to get them to come out the same”, he admitted. Eventually, after five years of persistence, Gen mastered the recipe for Gyoza An’s boiled dumplings, feeling ready to share them with the world.

One of the key reasons behind opening Gyoza AnD was Gen’s observation of the different attitudes Japanese and Hong Kong diners had towards gyoza. “In Japan, gyozas are considered as a main course that you can pair with a few beers and order more dishes if they’re still hungry,” Gen explained. “But in Hong Kong, they are seen more as a snack to go with the rest of their meal.” Ultimately, his motivations are clear. “I love gyoza, but there aren’t many places in Hong Kong that serve them [...] Japanese-style dumplings have thinner skins and a variety of fillings, and I want to highlight that for our customers.”

Beyond recreating the gyozas from the Tokyo-based restaurant, Gen also infused the restaurant with nostalgic Showa-era decor. “I wanted to recreate the era of when the original Gyoza An first opened, so we chose to use elements like blackboards, posters, and even chose music from that era,” he pointed out. “We also kept some details similar to the original restaurant like orange sofas and the colour and design of our logo.”

Hongkongers are avid lovers of all things Japan and the same goes for how they feel towards the country’s cuisine. However, Gen didn’t expect how receptive local diners would be to Gyoza AnD’s offerings, “I was surprised to find out how many Hong Kong people liked Japanese gyoza!” Gen also experimented with various fillings that would end up on the restaurant’s daily rotating selection of special gyozas based on customers’ palates. “I never imagined options like oyster, takoyaki, or shiso as fillings for gyozas in Japan. I think Hong Kong diners appreciate originality and are looking for something special that stands out, so I always think about what they would like when I develop gyoza recipes.”

Gen notes that in Japan, dumpling establishments typically specialise in gyoza with entrees like fried rice. Gyoza AnD initially implemented a similar model during its early days, but has since expanded its menu to include appetisers like beef tendon with ponzu, spicy chicken breast with coriander salad, and miso beef skewers to the menu. “We’re like a gyoza izakaya now, and I think our customers enjoy the experience [at Gyoza AnD] even more now.”

When asked if opening a second branch would be in the cards for Gyoza AnD, Gen sees potential in other locations like Causeway Bay, Mong Kok, and Tsim Sha Tsui. However, he remains focused on the current venue. “We chose Central because there are lots of people and international visitors in this area. We want them to learn about Japan’s gyoza culture and I want to share that with them”.

Running a successful restaurant doesn’t only boil down to serving delicious food; Gen prides himself on offering a down-to-earth dining experience and creating an environment where customers feel excited to return to. Using the original Tokyo-based eatery as inspiration, Gen and the team behind Gyoza AnD aim to spread this unique aspect of Japan’s dining culture to Hongkongers – all through humble plates of gyozas.