Joining sister restaurants Venedia Grancaffe and Octavium in the Chinachem Central building on Des Voeux Road Central, Rex Wine & Grill is a sturdy European steakhouse helmed by former Henry chef Nathan Green. Located on the basement level, the restaurant feels like a bit of a secret, a member's club if you will, with an old-school steakhouse vibe, white tablecloths, dark oak walls, copper accents, leather banquettes and a high-tech meat-ageing compartment displayed at one end of the restaurant.
Not unlike his former restaurants, the meat does play a main role on the menu with the steak tartare and warm toast smothered with smoked bone marrow butter, and prime beef (ranging from $550 to $2,280 depending on the cut) such as 44 Farms USDA prime; Stone Axe Australian full blood Wagyu; A5 Kagawa olive-fed Wagyu and Italian Scottona, raising the steaks here. But that's not all there is on the menu. The tuna crudo ($320), for example, is topped Hokkaido sea urchin and smoked eggplant seasoned with a little harissa for a Middle Eastern contrast, while a lobster and scallop ravioli ($320) brings the taste of the sea in full force.
Other highlights include the speciality pies like the Wicks Manor pig's head and potato pie ($350) which is encased in butter pastry and layered with tender pig's head, black pudding, and potato for a strong and satisfying flavour. Even the side dishes should get a shoutout. The beef dripping chips ($100) are perfectly crisp and plump, and the comforting Lancashire hotpot ($350), and lobster gratin ($680) are really quite special.
Cocktails ($120) are inspired by different countries and cities such as Genoa, Japan, New York, France and Haiti, while the wine program covers plenty of old-world offerings as well as cult labels and small producers from the US and Australia too.