Antico is a family-run supplier business that has been providing luxury foods to some of Hong Kong’s most exclusive establishments for more than a decade. The decision to open a tasting lounge, complete with chef and kitchen, to allow clients to sample the goods clearly struck the owners with the idea to become a restaurant as well, since they already have everything in place. The menu features à la carte options as well as several tasting menus. Feeling indulgent, we opt for the six-course set dinner ($600 for one, $980 for two). Up first is a selection of gourmet crostini. The best is an unusual combination of chorizo, melted Parmesan and mango. Next to arrive is the carpaccio, the least pleasant of all the dishes on the night. While we’re happy with the generous shavings of black truffle, the dish is somehow bland. The caviar blini which follows puts the meal on the right track again. Perfectly light and topped with quality caviar and sour cream, there’re no complaints here. The truffle risotto, again generously piled with black truffle shavings, is the best dish of the night. Rich, creamy and oozing with that earthy truffle flavour, this dish is perfection. The lobster brioche arrives next. Another winner, the sauce is just light enough to bring out the sweet flavours of the shellfish. Last but certainly not least, the zesty sake ice cream proves a refreshing end to the feast and finishing with a dash of alcohol is never a bad thing. Overall, we’re impressed. The majority of the cooking is excellent. It’s early days yet and the atmosphere is somewhat lacking, but the interiors are suitably cosy and give off a member’s club vibe, which seems fitting with the dishes on offer. Given the quality of the food, we’re sure the crowds will soon be rolling in.
Dinner for two: $980