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Renowned Japanese sushi chef-owner Hisashi Udatsu has opened a Hong Kong outpost of his Michelin-starred restaurant, Udatsu Sushi, in the heart of Tsim Sha Tsui within FWD House 1881. The Japanese eatery launched its flagship location in Tokyo’s Nakameguro neighbourhood in 2019 and received one Michelin star in 2022. Udatsu Sushi prides itself on its unique fusion of art and sushi, where chefs prepare sushi in an atmosphere enriched by jazz music and captivating artwork. We caught up with chef Udatsu to find out what he considers to be the perfect omakase experience.
The Hong Kong location features an interior inspired by art exhibitions, highlighted by a stunning 150-year-old Yoshino cypress counter. Additionally, Udatsu Sushi also displays a series of contemporary artworks on its concrete walls, such as photographs from legendary Japanese photographer Hiroshi Sugimoto’s Seascapes. With soft jazz underscoring a soothing backdrop, dining at Udatsu Sushi feels akin to stepping into a fine art gallery.
"We treat each dish made by our chefs as artwork"
While numerous restaurants in Hong Kong offer omakase, it’s rare to find a venue that integrates various art forms into the dining experience like this restaurant does. However, chef Udatsu’s interpretation of an art experience isn’t as straightforward as it sounds. “Rather than including art into the dining experience, we treat each dish made by our chefs as artworks themselves, so that our guests engage all five senses and experience our integration of art into dining,” he clarifies.
Aside from his culinary creations, chef Udatsu places just as much emphasis into his tableware. He shared that he sources items from Japan and Italy, and even uses hand-painted porcelain plates from Yuet Tung China Works, a local company based in Kowloon Bay. “Every piece of tableware is skillfully made by craftsmen, just as we do with our sushi,” he says. “With that in mind, I hope to channel their emotions and cherish these creations.”
"I need to meticulously choose ingredients from Hong Kong"
The Hong Kong outpost is helmed by chef Hiroki Nakamura, chef Udatsu’s sous chef and protégé of 13 years. Although most of the Japanese restaurant’s ingredients are imported from Japan’s fish markets on a daily basis, chef Udatsu deliberately spotlights local ingredients such as herbs, vegetables, and fish in his dishes. “If the Hong Kong outpost did the same dishes as [Udatsu Sushi in] Japan, it would be the same as moving the Japanese location to Hong Kong, which would be boring,” he frankly states. “So, I need to meticulously choose ingredients from Hong Kong. For instance, we use locally farmed eel in our sushi, as well as locally caught white fish, which has become part of our signature dish in Hong Kong.” Rather than focusing solely on sushi, Udatsu Sushi offers a diverse omakase experience that includes a variety of nigiri, rolls, and small plates featuring fried dishes and seasonal creations.
"We value ingredients brought in from producers and convey the importance behind each ingredient to our diners"
What sets Udatsu Sushi apart from other sushi establishments is its meticulous attention to detail. Take their interpretation of sea urchin gunkan, a beloved dish by many Hongkongers, as an example. Unlike other eateries, chef Udatsu places a thin slice of lightly fried seaweed over sushi rice, topped with plump pieces of Murasaki and Bafun uni. The combination of crispy seaweed, melt-in-your-mouth uni, and lightly warm vinegared rice provides a symphony of flavours and textures. Another standout creation not to be missed is their double-smoked akami tuna, marinated in soy sauce and served in an intricate glass jar filled with smoke. Aside from imparting extra flavour, the smoke also adds to the dish’s visual presentation in a thoughtful touch.
Ultimately, chef Udatsu strongly believes that a perfect omakase experience not only needs to provide an experience for the customers’ senses but also needs to tell a complete story through the order of its menu. “In our omakase process, we value each ingredient brought in from producers and convey the importance behind each ingredient to our customers,” he reaffirms.
