Another burger joint hits Hong Kong? Say it isn’t so! Well, it is – but Shanghainese chain Beef & Liberty claims to be a little different from the norm, using only beef from Hereford cattle, which are naturally raised by farmers in the Cape Grim region of Tasmania, Australia. The farmers’ focus is on quality and health of the cattle, as the meat is typically lean and high in omega-3 fatty acids and vitamin E.
Though laying no claim to any American roots, Beef & Liberty’s exposed-brick-wall design at its new Wan Chai base, along with the strumming of blues tunes reverberating through speakers, reminds us of the stars and stripes. This is further enhanced by the restaurant’s impressive backdrop mural, a commissioned project by American artists Cyrcle. The drinks menu also seems pretty Deep South too, with tipples like the bourbon-based Julep à la Thomas ($95) and the fully loaded Modern Moonshine ($90) becoming instant hits.
But we’re here for the burgers – and there’s a few interesting varieties up for grabs, like the lamb ($95), the vegetarian falafel ($78) and the black pepper ($108). We go for the green chilli ($98) and bacon cheese ($108), which both arrive with a small sign jabbed into the bun indicating our desired ‘doneness’. Bad news, though: the green chilli, meant to be medium-to-well-done, comes out as bloody as the medium-rare bacon cheese – and the sweet garlic mayo is missing. But there’s a silver lining as the lack of garlic allows us to appreciate the top grade beef au naturel. And it is really, really good. It’s not too greasy, it doesn’t smell or taste fatty at all and it has a sweet aftertaste which works with the bitterness of the fresh jalapenos. The bacon cheese suffers no similar mishaps, as the crispy bacon balances the beef and teases out the smokiness of the barbecue sauce. The country fries with harissa yoghurt ($30) are also grand, boasting a sublime aroma of peppers and coriander that pairs perfectly with the lightly salted fries.
The burgers at Beef & Liberty are top notch and when this new joint irons out the creases, we look forward to spending some free time gorging here – especially when we’re looking for healthier offerings.