It would be an understatement to say that Hong Kong’s restaurants have had a rough go of it over the last few years. But, arguably, few things have made it more obvious than the recent Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants awards. Normally, our fair city can count on having numerous eateries on the list, including stalwarts like Vea, Amber, and Lung King Heen. This year, though, these notable names were left off the rankings.
In the 2022 edition, only six Hong Kong restaurants made the cut for Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants, down from 11 the year before. And, although perennial favourites like Neighbourhood and Caprice – and new addition Wing – made it on the list, last year’s number one, The Chairman, slipped into fifth place though retaining its position as the city’s highest lister.
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So, what gives?
We’ve read the downward-trending numbers and seen the boarded-up restaurants around our favourite haunts. By some estimates, Hong Kong may see up to 5,000 restaurants temporarily or permanently shutter due to local pandemic restrictions. In January, Simon Wong, Chair of the Hong Kong Federation of Restaurants & Related Trades, estimated that the industry’s unemployment rate was expected to hit 15 percent (it was 6.9 percent in February, the city’s worst-hit sector).
Then there’s the confusion around Hong Kong’s vaccine pass system, which has caused headaches for restaurants since it was introduced in late February. With so many hoops to jump through and misunderstandings arising, many locals have chosen to skip dining out – even during the day, when it’s allowed – to avoid the hassle.
“The current state of Hong Kong’s [restaurant industry] has been challenging, to say the least,” says Alessandro Angelini, founder and chef of LucAle, a neighbourhood Italian restaurant in Sai Ying Pun. “During the pandemic, people have been more cautious about going out, and with restrictions in place after 6pm, people have been eating dinner at home or ordering food online.”
But, it’s not all bad news.
The 2022 Michelin Guide Hong Kong added 11 new restaurants to their ranking – including foodie favourites Chaat, Belon, Hansik Goo, and Mono – and seven new Bib Gourmand eateries creating an awards list robust enough to satisfy any discerning diner.
Many restaurants have gotten creative to ensure their income stream, finding myriad ways to keep orders coming in. Chilli Fagara, a Sichuan restaurant in normally bustling Soho, launched Hot ‘N Meen, a casual, delivery-only noodle brand. Others, like Pirata Group, which owns popular eateries like Tokyolima, Pici, and Chaiwala, have turned to enticing customers with complimentary free-flow booze packages with lunch sets, special menus, and adding extra seatings for the quiet hours between the lunch rush and the forced 6pm closure.
Why, then, does it seem that Hong Kong’s restaurants are losing their lustre on the international scene?
Almost everyone in the industry agrees that the city’s closed borders have had a massive negative impact. Speaking about the city’s performance in the 2022 Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants awards, Angelini notes, “The rankings are designed by international journalists…most [of whom] are not able to enter the city. Although Asia has some of the best restaurants in the world, closed borders can be really detrimental to accurate reviews.”
The team at 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana – which placed 48th on this year’s list and retained three stars in the 2022 Michelin Guide – adds, “Closed borders and a partial city lockdown resulted in a tremendous fall in the number of travellers to Hong Kong and definitely affected the exposure of Hong Kong restaurants in Asia and beyond.”
Of course, this doesn’t render these awards irrelevant. The fact that Hong Kong’s restaurants still rank on these lists is a testament to the quality and relevancy of the city’s restaurants on the international stage and is important for keeping them – and Hong Kong – in the culinary limelight. However, with critics unable to access the city, these awards may be relying on previous experiences and could be missing out on buzzworthy newcomers and not accounting for the city’s changing gastronomic landscape.
The pressures of the pandemic – the social restrictions, closed borders, and more – haven’t helped, either. Most restaurants find it impossible to sustain their operations when they can only serve lunch, which has the run-on effects of forcing cost-cutting measures and potentially affecting food quality.
At LucAle, the team made the difficult decision to cease operations entirely – albeit temporarily – when they felt that their ability to continue living up to their standards was impeded. The Bombana team noted that cost-cutting has directly influenced the industry’s ability to select ingredients and provide top-notch quality. And that’s even before you look at the sky-high costs and delays in cargo caused by Hong Kong’s closed borders.
Still, Hong Kong’s industry insiders remain optimistic.
Many restaurateurs and chefs have seized the opportunities in lower commercial rents and a captive audience to create exciting new dining concepts. Westside Hospitality, who started their Hong Kong run with Kennedy Town taqueria 11 Westside, opened the Korean-inspired drinking-and-dining den OPB and Dama Noodle Bar in quick succession, with a new project, 1st and Beaudry, to follow this summer. Chef Olivier Elzer (from L’Envol at The St Regis Hong Kong) recently opened Clarence to showcase his innovative “Yakifrenchy” cuisine. And the aforementioned Pirata Group appears to be taking a whack-a-mole approach, seemingly opening a new place every month, including a massive four-restaurant concept, The Sixteenth, in Quarry Bay.
Other chefs are also using the chance to level up their skills to prepare to wow guests on their return to dining out. “[The pandemic has] allowed us chefs to spend more time in the restaurant and develop more interesting and new ideas,” remarks Vicky Cheng of the recently opened Wing, which placed 34th in Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants. Cheng also notes that already, his restaurant is seeing a strong come back after the city’s fifth wave, with regular guests – and new ones – scrambling for a reservation.
“The word in Chinese for ‘crisis’ is the same as the word for opportunity,’ notes Angelini. “Thus, I still see hope for Hong Kong as an international city with a great portfolio of international restaurants. Hong Kong is resilient. There is still demand for good food and dining experiences.”
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