Schanzenviertel, Hamburg: our ultimate area guide

Once the beating heart of Hamburg counter-culture, the Sternschanze – also known as the Sternschanze or simply the ‘Schanze’ – has followed a typical gentrification trajectory over the last decade. Once the home turf of punks, artists and activists, it became the neighbourhood of choice for style-conscious media professionals who largely priced out the original residents who gave the quarter its interest and edge.

Nevertheless, the Schanze remains one of the most engaging neighborhoods in Hamburg, with elegant buildings and a number of great bars, cafes, clubs, record stores, antique shops and independent boutiques. The long-contested Rote Flora squat and cultural centre is a surviving token of Schanze activism, campaigning on issues including immigration, nationalism and the privatization of public space.

Where to stay in Schanzenviertel

A couple of minutes from the Sternschanze S-Bahn station by foot, Fritz in Pyjama is hip, colorful and comfortable, with individually decorated rooms and studios for a good, mid-range price. It’s on a fairly busy street, so ask for a room at the back if you’re a light sleeper. 

Where to eat in Schanzenviertel

An all-night neighborhood institution and post-party favorite, the no-nonsense Erika’s Eck promises chilled beer and huge portions of schnitzel from 5pm to 2pm the next day, or 9am on weekends. Offering simple breakfast and lunch staples, Café unter den Linden has an old-school charm, lovely terrace and a great selection of international newspapers, if underwhelming coffee.

Where to drink in Schanzenviertel

Neighborhood favourite Le Fonque promises ice-cold Astra and soul-filled tunes in a small, smoky and strictly vinyl locale, where live DJ’s play funk, soul and boogie seven nights a week.

Things to do in Schanzenviertel

Get a good feel for the neighborhood with a short circular stroll via Schulterblatt, Susannenstrasse, and the Schanzenstrasse. Then check out the Saturday Flohschanze flea market for vintage clothes, books, antiques and bargain bric-a-brac.