Where to stay in Florence

If you want to eat like a real Florentine, come to San Frediano. This Oltrarno sub-neighbourhood on the left bank of the Arno lures gourmands with its old-style trattorias and osterias serving up simple, traditional dishes. San Frediano has undergone a bit of a transformation over the years, which is evident in almost every venue – artisan shops have become bars, workers’ buildings have transformed into trendy boutique hotels, and butchers are now restaurants. For a stylish stay, head to Hotel Lungarno. But if you want something simpler, check out this cozy Airbnb located in an ancient palazzo with original majolica floors. And make sure to check out 'l Trippaio di San Frediano for traditional Florentine tripe sandwiches, stuffed with lampredotto (cow stomach).

Despite being only a 20-minute bus ride from Florence’s historic centre, Fiesole couldn’t feel further from the city crowds. It might be its own village, but locals consider Fiesole a city district – you’ll likely see Florentines picnicking and jogging here on the weekends. It’s ideal for a longer stay, and the surrounding gently rolling hills dotted with castles, ancient taverns and aristocratic villas will have you living the rural idyll. Sleep at rural guesthouse Residence Fiesole, and try ribollita, a farmer soup made with seasonal vegetables, beans and dry bread, which is left in to soak in the broth. The best spots for it are Osteria Vinandro and Piatti e Fagotti. 

Despite being moments away from some of Florence’s biggest attractions, Sant’Ambrogio has managed to slip under most visitors’ radars. It’s here you’ll experience the buzz of local life in Florence. When it comes to Italy’s evening drink ritual dubbed aperitivo – or apericena if it runs late, turning into dinner – locals here know how to do it best. The picturesque Mercato di Sant’Ambrogio, a farmers market selling fresh produce, meat and fish, is as much a landmark as the Duomo, while the flea market a few steps away is stacked with old jewellery and books. For a unique dining experience, head to trattoria L’Ortone for delicious handmade pasta, including Tuscan pici, which is like thick spaghetti. And stop at Alla Sosta dei Papi to have a sip of Tuscany’s top bottles.

Florence isn’t all about the grand masterpieces of the Renaissance. To see the other side of Florence’s art scene head to San Niccolò, known as the city’s creative district for its art galleries, artisan boutiques, and hipster crowd. It’s also the only place in Florence where you can see the original medieval city walls. Grab a plate of Tuscan cold cuts and sheep cheeses – or traditional dishes like pasta with onions – at Beppa Fioraia, a cozy tavern with a local crowd. And try endless varieties of vino – from Tuscan to other Italian labels – at the rustic Enoteca Fuori Porta. Make sure to try the tripe with basil. For a luxurious stay at the end, Plaza Hotel Lucchesi has an infinity pool with views of the Duomo and Florence’s skyline. 

Get to know Florence’s romantic soul at the lush Boboli Gardens. With its majestic fountains and statues, it’s great for evening strolls. Nearby, there’s no better spot to admire the sunset and city views than Piazzale Michelangelo, dubbed the city’s ‘balcony’. Here it’s all about great Tuscan pasta, meat, and fish dishes. La Loggia del Piazzale Michelangelo has a panoramic terrace to admire the skyline while Trattoria Boboli, next door to the gardens, has an elegant courtyard. But there’s no better way to get a taste of Florence’s dolce vita than by sipping a Negroni or taking a shot of Sambuca with mozzarella finger foods at Terrazze Michelangelo bar. Florentines flock here for happy hour, relaxing on the panoramic patios.