Florence,,Italy,-,12,,March,,2018:,Horizontal,Picture,Of,Italian
Photograph: Shutterstock
Photograph: Shutterstock

A weekend in Florence: The ultimate itinerary

From city views to the wine bars (and lots of pasta), here's a detailed local's guide to taking on the city

Phoebe Hunt
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There’s a reason Florence is one of the most popular city breaks in the world. It excels in food, art and culture in equal measure, but as the secret is most definitely out, parts of this beautiful city can feel overcrowded with tourists (and the inevitable tourist traps that follow). 

So if you’re planning a weekend trip, what you need is local knowledge. And that’s where we come in. Phoebe Hunt is a writer living in Florence, which means she knows where to find the really good stuff: spontaneous wine tastings, food markets, family-run cafés and more. From the must-see tourist haunts to the city’s biggest secrets, here’s our ultimate weekend itinerary. 

RECOMMENDED:
🍴 The best restaurants in Florence
📍  The best things to do in Florence
🛏️ Where to stay in Florence
🏡 The best Airbnbs in Florence
🏨 The best hotels in Florence

Phoebe Hunt is a writer based in Florence. At Time Out, all of our travel guides are written by local writers who know their cities inside out. For more about how we curate, see our editorial guidelinesThis guide includes affiliate links, which have no influence on our editorial content. For more information, see our affiliate guidelines

A local's guide to Florence

How to get there

Florence-Peretola International Airport is 6km outside of the city, connected by fast and frequent trams to the city centre. Tram tickets cost 1.50€ each way, and can be bought from kiosks on the platform.

Trains from Rome, Milan, Pisa and other major European cities arrive at Santa Maria Novella Station, also known as Stazione Centrale, which is located a ten-minute walk from the historic centre. There are taxis (Uber doesn’t exist here) and somewhat unreliable busses to get around town, but Florence is a small city, best enjoyed by foot where possible.

Where to stay

Florence’s beauty extends beyond the galleries and museums into homes across the city, and it’s not uncommon to find a centuries-old fresco casually preserved on an Airbnb wall.

In ultra-central Piazza della Repubblica, newly opened Hotel La Gemma is a luxurious choice with a spa and rooftop terrace. For a more affordable break, there are many kitsch and quirky apartments such as this Santa Croce flat which has panoramic views across the city’s terracotta rooftops. Ostello Tasso is one of the best-loved hostels in town, located in a cool neighbourhood just outside the centre. 

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Friday: Touchdown in Florence

The Italian art of the passeggiata – a gentle stroll – is the best way to explore Florence. Sliced in half by the river Arno, the north of the city has most of the key cultural attractions, while the bohemian Oltrarno district south of the river is all about artisan makers, cobbled streets and cosy restaurants. Heading in to the city centre, you can’t miss the looming presence of the Duomo, the giant dome of Santa Maria del Fiore Cathedral. Climb inside the dome for a vertigo-inducing peep into Florentine history, or head to Piazza Della Signoria and over the Ponte Vecchio – the only bridge to survive Nazi bombings – and continue getting your bearings.

Sunset and Spritz

Once over the Ponte Vecchio, amble along the Arno towards the sleepy San Niccolò neighbourhood and stop in one of the bars for a spritz and some stuzzichini, or bar snacks. As evening approaches, climbing up to Piazzale Michelangelo to watch the sunset is a rite of passage for couples and backpackers alike: perch on the stone steps for a panoramic view over the city below. For dinner, you’re only a short walk down to Santo Spirito and Borgo San Frediano, where cute wine bars and cosy trattorie like Trattoria Cammillo or Trattoria La Casalinga have a timeless appeal for both locals and tourists. 

📍 Check out more of Florence's coolest neighbourhoods

Saturday: Get your culture fix

Stendhal syndrome

There’s an alleged condition – Stendhal syndrome – in which visitors to Florence become overwhelmed by the sheer beauty of the city, resulting in dizziness and a rapid heartbeat. Pace yourself and hit the Uffizi Galleries first thing, before the crowds arrive. Built by the Medici family, who ruled Florence throughout the 15th to 18th centuries, the building is almost as impressive as the artworks crammed within. Be sure to see Botticelli’s Birth of Venus, Caravaggio’s Medusa, and a handful of Leonardo Da Vinci paintings. Afterwards, reward yourself with a cappuccino on the top floor viewing platform. From here, you can see the Vasari Corridor – a secret passage once used by the Medici family – which goes all the way through the Uffizi, over the Ponte Vecchio and to the Pitti Palace nearly a kilometre away.

Snacks and souvenirs

Smug with all the culture you’ve consumed, it’s time to head to Mercato Sant’Ambrogio for a different kind of sightseeing. All year round, this local, colourful and chaotic morning food market is awash with the freshest Italian produce. Sample truffle-infused cheeses, pickled artichokes, persimmons and cherries, picking up some goodies for lunch. Alternatively, stop off at Caffe Cibrèo, one of the neighbourhood’s most iconic restaurants, for a traditional Tuscan lunch of offal and tripe. In winter, try their wickedly rich hot chocolate, so thick you need a spoon to enjoy it.

Religious reckoning

If you’re going to visit one church on this trip, make it Santa Croce, a vast and ornate basilica that houses the graves of Michelangelo, Galileo, Machiavelli and many other famous Florentines. Afterwards, poke your nose into the artisan leather workshop Scuola del Cuoio, and watch purses, belts and wallets being made by hand. 

🏛️ Check out our guide to the best museums in Florence

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Sunday: La Vita Italiana

Your final day in Florence is for eating, drinking and shopping. Begin with a coffee and a cremino – a custard-stuffed pastry – at Perseo in Piazza della Signoria, where silver platters and old-school glamour abound. If you don’t have the time or inclination to make it to the Accademia Gallery to see Michelangelo’s original Statue of David, the life-size replica in Piazza della Signoria does the trick, without the need for queueing.

Gathering goodies

For picking up souvenirs, Mercato Centrale is your best bet, selling leather goods, marbled Florentine paper, clothes and knick-knacks galore. Be prepared to haggle. Not far from here, one of Florence’s most unique shopping experiences is Officina Profumo Farmaceutica Santa Maria Novella, which claims to be the oldest pharmacy in the world. Tracing its roots back to 1221, the shop is all dark wood and elaborate frescoes. The deliciously scented candles and lotions are not cheap, but makes for excellent presents. Continue on to Casa del Vino, an adorable wine bar that’s stuck in time, for a glass of Chianti Classico. Most Sundays, there’s also a wonderful vintage and craft market in Piazza Santo Spirito, a local neighbourhood with a slower pace of life. End your afternoon with a mooch around the Oltrarno followed by a gelato at the best spot in town, Sbrino.

And if you’re staying one more night…

Book tickets to the iconic Teatro del Sale, founded by the late Fabio Picci and his wife Maria Cassi. Bringing together live performance and traditional Tuscan cooking, it makes for a marvellous evening. The theatre is all in Italian, so opt for the live music nights if you can.  

🛍️ Check out our guide to shopping in Florence

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