Eat your way around North Macedonia

Where? Ohrid

Why go? Locally caught fish at a charming lakefront setting.

What to try? Spend some time by Europe’s oldest lake in Ohrid. Not only does this area offer scenic views and water activities, but you can explore centuries-old fortresses, churches and monasteries before tucking into local specialities at family-run kafeanas. With Lake Ohrid right there, this place has a bountiful supply of freshwater fish that makes its way to the tables in these parts. Fried plashica (bleak) fish are the most popular option in Ohrid itself. The plashica are often prepared without their scales. That’s because those tiny protective plates are a key ingredient of a highly secretive emulsion used in the production of Ohrid pearls.

Where? Ohrid

Why go? To try North Macedonia’s unofficial national dish.

What to try? Star of the local culinary scene in North Macedonia is the hearty bean stew known as tavče gravče. Baked in an earthenware pot and served steaming hot, you can chow down at a table beside the lake at MoMir restaurant, where other North Macedonian comfort foods, including a variety of fish and chicken dishes, are available.

Where? Ohrid

Why go? Good choices for vegetarians.

What to try? Vine leaves, known as sarma, are usually stuffed with rice and minced meat in North Macedonia. These tasty parcels might well be off the menu for vegetarians, but there are plenty of great traditional alternatives for meat-free diets, particularly at Restaurant Antico. Top choices include tavče gravče bean stew and the delightfully tender, almost creamy, polneti modar domat, stuffed aubergines.

Where? Ohrid

Why go? A hidden gem that’s a hit with locals.

What to try? North Macedonia puts its own delicious spin on an Italian staple by taking a long, stretched pizza topped with pork called pastrmalija. You can also find some places that will top theirs with an egg too – perfect if you’re craving a kind of brunch dish. Enjoy yours like a local with a few spicy pickled peppers on the side and demolish every last morsel.

Where? Skopje’s Debar Maalo neighbourhood.

Why go? To sample North Macedonian wines and the local fire water, rakija, with traditional cuisine.

What to try? Wine, glorious wine. You might not find North Macedonian bottles on supermarket shelves at home, but that’s down to trade deals rather than quality. Temjanika and Vranec are the main local white and red varietals respectively, mostly hailing from the Tikveš wine region in the country’s south, where archaeological evidence dates wine production to at least the 4th century BCE. Dishes to try at Wine House Čardak include šopska salata, North Macedonia’s answer to the Greek salad, best served with selsko meso, a pork and mushroom stew roasted with tomatoes, onions and local herbs in a clay pot.

Where? Near the Old Bazaar in Skopje’s Čaršija district.

Why go? To indulge your sweet tooth with traditional treats.

What to try? Sweet shops are places where the region’s Turkish influence really shines through, in the form of sticky baklava. Another worthy contender for your palate is known as tollumba at Mado Prom (often called tulumba elsewhere), consisting of fried fingers of dough drenched in a sugary syrup, a little like a jalebi.

Where? Ohrid City Bakery in Ohrid

Why go? A relaxed drop-in local bakery where you can stock up on delicious goods.

What to try? Morning fuel in North Macedonia comes in the form of flaky, cheese-filled pastries known as burek, and none are quite as delicious as these. Additional ingredients include spinach, minced meat and potato. In North Macedonia, it’s common to accompany burek with a plain yoghurt drink on the side. A breakfast alternative found in some restaurants and most markets is ajvar, a sweet pepper, paprika and aubergine dip, slow-cooked with oil and salt until the smoky and creamy flavours suffuse every inch, served with bread. 

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