Cambridge, for many reasons, gets its fair share of tourists. And where you get tourists you get bad (but expensive) accommodation. Naff places that don’t need to try particularly hard to fill rooms. Usually they have flash lobbies, mediocre (but expensive) restaurants, ersatz-Aesop shampoos and TVs that do almost none of the things they claim to be able to do.
The University Arms, a higgledy-piggledy puzzle box of a building, is not one of those places. It is, in fact, a real treat. It sits, fortress-like, on the corner of Parker’s Piece green, at the edge of central Cambridge, looking like a copper-topped, 1800s Wes Anderson fever dream. There are no gimmicks here, no wacky decor choices or attention-grabbing ‘features’. Just a big, beautiful hotel, filled with hard-working people who seem to genuinely like what they do.
Rooms at the University Arms are nicely appointed, extremely comfortable and (if you ask for the right ones) blessed with pleasant views over the green. Also: fans of elegant, freestanding bathtubs will not be disappointed (just make sure you request one). The appeal of this hotel goes far further than the rooms, obviously. The decor, the architecture, is a gloriously unfathomable combination of restrained-tasteful and full-on anachronism. Where else are you going to find Georgian classicism rubbing up against mid-century modernism, theatrical neo-deco and even a bit of seaside-y breeziness? It shouldn’t work, but it does. All of the details, from furniture to wall art, have been thought about and fussed over (I found myself marvelling at the sheer rightness of the lobby’s umbrella holder), the resulting vibe is friendly and reassuringly professional.
Special mention should also go to new (at the time of writing) exec chef Lee Clarke in the kitchen. Hotel restaurants - especially posh ones - are usually underwhelming. The University Arms’ English brasserie is nothing of the sort: high-quality cooking, great presentation, a chic dining room and brilliant service. The best thing you can say about a restaurant is that all the people eating within it appear to be having a good time, and that was the case here. Lee’s currently threatening to completely overhaul the menu, and if this nascent effort is any indication, his fully fledged culinary vision will be something to behold.
Neighbourhood
A few minutes from the hotel, you’ll find one of Cambridge’s most varied streets. Perfect for a mooch, Mill Road stretches all the way out to Prizon Park and features Indian gastro pubs, book shops, dim sum (featuring live music), taquerias, slick cafes and tons more. Walking in the other direction will take you into central Cambridge, the city’s historic core.
Nearby
Arts Picturehouse Up the street from the hotel is one of the city’s best cinemas. New releases, talks from industry names and (best of all) classics and cult favourites.
The Free Press One of the nicest pubs (in our opinion) in Cambridge is right around the corner. Great beers, lovely staff and one of the dinkiest snugs in the country.
Mr Taco A casual place to pick up tacos, burritos, enchiladas and the like. Great service and the food is as tasty as it is great value.