Where to stay in Edinburgh, for the Fringe and beyond

Best for: pints, gigs and cool kids  

Formerly named one of our coolest neighbourhoods in the world, Leith sits on the northerly edge of Edinburgh and was once Scotland’s main port for trade. Today, it’s one of the most exciting and varied places to visit in the city, with three cracking Michelin star restaurants, an ever-expanding nightlife scene and arts spaces and events that attract creatives from all over the world. Independent bar and music venue Leith Depot is excellent for gigs, as well as for grabbing a pint and a bite to eat, and community arts centre Out of the Blue has artist studios, rehearsal rooms and performance spaces where you’ll find everything from arts markets to large-scale productions. You can spend an afternoon at one of the many cafés and bars along the shore or while away the evening at Teuchters Landing, which overlooks the Water of Leith, Lost in Leith Bar & Fermentaria or the always-friendly Newbarns Brewery and Taproom on Jane Street. And if you’re looking for somewhere unique to stay, try the luxury floating hotel Fingal, which is permanently berthed on Alexandra Dock.

Best for: arts and culture (and coffee)

Edinburgh’s Southside is traditionally a student-friendly part of the city because of its close proximity to the main University of Edinburgh campus, but with so many well-loved pubs, bars, cafés and restaurants in the area, we non-students love it too. Start your day with a stroll through the Meadows, which overflows with cherry blossoms in the spring and plays host to events like the annual volunteer-run Meadows Festival in the summer, then grab a top-tier coffee and cake from nearby Cult, Fortitude, Considerit or 101 Bakery. It’s easy to spend a full day in Summerhall, the Southside’s year-round arts complex, which is home to The Royal Dick pub and MF Coffee, as well as a regularly rotating line-up of high quality visual arts exhibitions, gigs, film screenings, festivals, markets and more. There’s an abundance of guesthouses and B&Bs in the area to choose from but for something a little more luxurious, check out five-star retreat Prestonfield House.

Best for: ticking off the tourist attractions

If you’re after cobbled streets and fascinating buildings, Edinburgh’s Old Town is arguably the best place to stay on a visit. As the historic centre of the city, the Old Town is where you’ll find many of the main tourist attractions including Edinburgh Castle and the Royal Mile, the newly renovated National Galleries of Scotland on the Mound and the National Museum of Scotland on Chambers Street. For views, it’s well worth heading up Calton Hill, which offers one of the city’s best vantage points, as well as the excellent contemporary art gallery Collective. When it comes to hotels, there are so many to choose from, including the famous Balmoral on Princes Street. But other top recommendations include the relatively new Virgin Hotels on Victoria Street, and the edgy and decadent boutique hotel House of Gods on the Cowgate. For food, you can go high end via Michelin star eatery Timberyard, which has a reputation for its sustainable and seasons-led menu, or David Bann which has eclectic vegetarian fare. For something more casual, try Civerinos for pizza, the quirky Paradise Palms for vegan soul food and cocktails or Mother India’s Cafe for delicious Indian dishes.

📍 Check out our full guide to Edinburgh’s Old Town

Best for: Georgian architecture and flash hotels

The New Town is renowned for its grand Georgian townhouses and neoclassical architecture, with an elegance that contrasts with the hubbub of the Old Town. Similarly to the Old Town of Edinburgh though, the New Town has numerous first-class hotels, ranging from design-led aparthotel Eden Locke to the prestigious InterContinental Edinburgh, both on George Street. Another solid choice is The Raeburn in Stockbridge, which was once a Georgian family home and is now a boutique hotel with 10 bedrooms and a popular food and drink offering. While you’re in Stockbridge, it’s worth visiting the weekly street food and farmers’ market on a Sunday morning, where you’ll find a huge variety of traders that change regularly. And not far from the market location is the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art, which features an impressive collection of Scottish Colourists, major 20th century names and a striking lawn outside, designed by landscape architect Charles Jencks.

Best for: seaside living

It might be odd to suggest leaving the city centre on a visit to Edinburgh but Portobello really is worth the trip. Just a few miles from the Old Town, Portobello is a seaside suburb with a long stretch of sandy beach that temporarily takes you away from the hustle and bustle of the city. When the weather is decent, you’ll find the beach packed with locals and dog-walkers, as well as swimmers, kayakers, rowers and more. The Beach House Cafe is ideal for brunch, with outdoor seating that overlooks the beach, while ShrimpWreck on the promenade will keep you going with its topnotch take on fish and chips and street food. For a pint, head to Porty Vault or Portobello Tap, and for wine and small plates in a stylish location, try Smith & Gertrude on the High Street. In terms of where to stay, there are popular B&Bs and guest houses like the Beachfront B&B, Georgian Guest House and Straven Guest House, but Portobello also has a Premier Inn and a Best Western, both just a short walk from the beach.