A talented chef and a showman – he’s been on the telly – Greenaway brings both professionalism and fun to fine dining. He burst on the Edinburgh scene in 2011 at Picardy Place then moved his restaurant to North Castle Street in 2013. Here the interior colour scheme is predominantly pale blue and the furniture modern, but it somehow fits in a building that’s very much part of the Georgian New Town. Given the existence of the market menu, covering lunch and pre-theatre, eating here need not break the bank. Come the evening, come the à la carte of course – or an eight course tasting menu should you prefer.
The theatrical aspect of Greenaway’s craft can kick in early – a salmon amuse bouche housed in a ceramic egg and served in an egg carton for instance. A signature starter is crab cannelloni with smoked cauliflower custard, lemon pearls, baby coriander, beetroot mayo – and herbed butter playing a surprise role. The long-running signature main is 11-hour, slow-roast belly pork, a dish that has been tweaked over the years but it might come with pork cheek, blackened fillet, sweetcorn and toffee apple jus. A typical dessert could be white chocolate sponge with blueberry gel, lemon curd, ice cream and poppy seed tuille.