It’s hard to know where to start with Lyla, Stuart Ralston’s fourth Edinburgh venture: sometimes, you’re left quite literally speechless at the intricacy of it all. Situated in a towering Royal Terrace townhouse which previously housed the late Paul Kitching’s 21212, ingredients are sourced from all over Scotland with a focus on sustainably caught seafood and foraged goods. It’s a lavish affair. First, you’re welcomed up the stairs and into the drawing room – a severe-looking expanse of tall glass windows, dry-age meat fridges and a Champagne trolley – for a tipple (the peach sour went down a treat) and a selection of snacks.
Then it’s back downstairs for the real deal – an open kitchen and 28-cover dining room, all calm, minimalist, neutral – allowing the food to take centre stage like sculptures in a white cube gallery. And art it was. Everything – from the dinky cheese and onion crisp sandwich and tweezered garnishes, through to the velvety mouthful of white chocolate financier and the exquisite, meticulously thought-out wine-pairing (which head sommelier Stuart Skea chats through with mind-melting intel) – was impeccable. A highlight was the silky, unami-exploding smoked trout chawanmushi (a Japanese savoury custard; I had to Google it), though the crisp-covered Scottish langoustine and the rich, chocolately salted milk came close seconds. You’ll leave Lyla feeling indulged, of course, but in a chic way, like you’ve just walked into the city after a night at the opera. It won’t come cheap – the ten course tasting menu checks in at £165 per head – but for the standard of service, food and everything in between, it really doesn’t disappoint.
Time Out tip: Sleepy? Special occasion? Book yourself into one of the luxury upstairs bedrooms and roll directly from dessert into bed.