Cardinal is the latest venture from chef Tomás Gormley: one of the minds behind Leith’s Michelin-starred Heron and the more recent opening, Skua in a Stockbridge. At first glance, you’d be forgiven for thinking they were trying a tad too hard here: the walls are all painted black, lit only with contemporary paintings and candles which you find out are, in fact, made from rendered lamb fat when they’re poured over your plate to mark the halfway point. Luckily, though, they’ve managed to get the balance just right. The staff are super laid-back, Honey Dijon and Jamie XX soundtrack the background, and the drinks pairing, which seemed to have an emphasis on female producers and biodynamic numbers, is gorgeously curated. (Special shout out to the French cider which was like orange wine on acid, in the very best way possible.)
All of this makes the extensive (to say at the least) 16-courses feel accessible, or at least less wanky. Boldly thought out and innovative, the food itself is, for the most part, divine – in particular the hand-dived scallop with tom yum and blackcurrant, the top-tier fried chicken with crème fraîche, caviar and sourdough waffle and the gloriously fluffy milk bun with taramasalata and egg yolk. The biscuits at the end felt like something of an afterthought, being frankly too heavy after everything already consumed, but if you’re after a meal which doubles as a night out, this is the place for you.
Time Out tip: Not sure you can stomach all 16 courses? They also offer a more concise tasting menu available on select days for lunch and dinner.