The chef-proprietor of the Plumed Horse, Tony Borthwick, is a very talented man and runs an intimate, tasteful and exemplary restaurant in the classic haute style. That means starters like trio of beetroot with truffle honey, toasted hazels, Dunsyre Blue mousse and watercress; mains such as sautéed venison loin with braised celery heart, Puy lentils, pied de mouton and pancetta casserole. Bish bosh innovative? No. Beautifully crafted? Yes.
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