The Witchery isn’t so much a hotel as it is a gothic fever dream. Perched on the cobbled Royal Mile, mere steps from Edinburgh Castle, the hotel takes its name from the hundreds of people who were burned at the stake as witches on Castlehill.
The hotel – which embraces its heritage with theatrical flair – occupies a sixteenth century building, once used as committee rooms for the Church of Scotland. Here, you can forget cookie-cutter luxury: you’ll feel like you’ve stepped back in time, into a fairytale where kings and queens frolic with devils, witches and sprites. It’s incredibly over the top, but it works. Dark wood panelling? Check. Velvet drapes in ruby red and gold? Check. Gilded mirrors, antique furniture, and ceilings so intricately carved you’ll wonder why they aren’t in the Museum of Scotland? It’s all here, wrapped up in candlelight.
After a warm welcome, we were led up winding stone steps into The Old Rectory, one of nine unique suites. It’s hard not to gasp at the interiors: a majestic bed with a grand, organ-style detail, cupboards in hidden bookcases, baroque-style busts and a roll-top bathtub with Penhaligon’s toiletries. View wise, you’re looking out over the Royal Mile to swarms of tourists scuttling up to Edinburgh castle. Honestly, it’s the kind of place where you half-expect a ghost to waft through the wall – in an oddly comforting way.
The Secret Garden restaurant is every bit as romantic: vines drape down from a skylight ceiling, candlesticks dot the tables, faded paintings of skeletons, devils and mythical beings glare at you from the wood-panelled ceiling. The menu, with a focus on locally-sourced Scottish seafood, is equally decadent, though far less spooky: we munched on hand-dived orkney scallops, heritage tomatoes and steak.
For all its grandeur, The Witchery is surprisingly cosy. There’s an intimate level of detail, a craftsmanship on display here that you rarely find these days: even the restaurant loos were adorned with baroque wallpapers and gold-plated frames. It’s big bucks, but if you’re after opulence, this is one of the most unique places you can stay in Scotland.
Time Out Tip: Book early, I beg you. With only nine suites and a high-flying reputation, the Witchery fills up fast. If you can, pick a room with a view of the Royal Mile.
Neighbourhood
It’s called the Witchery by the Castle for a reason: you couldn’t be more central if you tried. Situated at the very top of the Royal Mile, this is the perfect pad for exploring Edinburgh’s historic Old Town: all cobbled streets and closes, cosy pubs and whisky bars.
Nearby
Edinburgh Castle: Right next door – literally. Wonder rounds Scotland’s most iconic fortress and enjoy sweeping views of the city below, while you’re at it.
Sneaky Pete’s: This 100-capacity live music venue books some of the most exciting emerging acts in the country – and throws a belter of a club night, too.
The Scotch Whisky Experience: Just around the corner, this is your go-to spot for learning about (and tasting) Scotland’s national drink.