Where to stay in Dublin for a taste of the city's top areas

Smithfield on Dublin’s northside has grown up since its gritty days in the early 2000s. Nestled between vivacious Temple Bar, expansive Phoenix Park and free-spirited Stoneybatter, staying here will give visitors true insight into local life. Most activity revolves around Smithfield Square, a former market right off the Luas tramline – there, you can grab breakfast at Third Space to line your stomach for the iconic Jameson Distillery, where Jameson’s whiskey was made until 1971. 

Stay here: Strapped for cash? Check out Generator Hostel right on Smithfield Square, which has a very nice café-bar if you’re looking to make new friends. For a more upmarket stay, book Ashling Hotel right off the park. 

Just east of the revolutionary monuments and high street shops on O’Connell Street, the Docklands are where the Royal and Grand Canals meet the River Liffey on their joint journey to the Irish Sea. The area is synonymous with modern architecture, entertainment venues and haute cuisine (and a little bit with how many Citigroup bankers have moved there), but it’s the top spot to see Dublin by water (obvs!). Make sure to take a backstage tour of Abbey Theatre, visit the high-tech EPIC Museum and sink some historical pints at John Mulligan’s (even US President John F. Kennedy has drank here). 

Stay here: Spencer Hotel has a spa, sauna and steam room that will melt all your stress away. For something more affordable, Molloy’s has five beautiful apartments above its bar. 

Southern, Georgian Dublin is the Dublin travellers dream about. Fitzwilliam Square, Merrion Square Park and St. Stephen’s Green are lush and lively, and the surrounding cobblestone streets brim with brick townhouses that ooze 18th-century charm. Adorned with ornate arches, colourful doors and grand knockers, every entryway begs to be photographed. History enthusiasts should make a beeline to the region’s revolutionary landmarks, as art seekers bounce between the National Library, National Gallery and National Concert Hall, and animal lovers explore the weird and wonderful taxidermy displays at the Natural History Museum. Though technically not the centre of the city, it can certainly feel like it.

EAT

Coffee and a croissant at the charming Petit Café is the best way to start your day. When it comes to dinner, Etto has you covered. Don’t let the size or pared-back interior fool you. The small plates at this Italian-inspired, Irish-infused, Michelin-lauded wine bar carry big flavours. The ingredients are locally sourced, the vibe unpretentious, and the prices accessible. Alternatively, both Brookwood and Matt the Thresher serve some of the city’s best seafood. And you have to try fresh oysters while you’re in town.

DRINK

The historic, homey O’Donoghues on Merrion Row books traditional live music every evening. The Dubliners and other big names have even been known to pop in. Between the free folk tunes, welcoming atmosphere and affordable pints, the craic is essentially guaranteed. 

DO

The Little Museum of Dublin may look like any other elegant abode on St. Stephen’s Green, but its three storeys are stuffed with thousands of crowdsourced curiosities. The donations depict different aspects of Dublin life throughout the 20th century, and the guides are as entertaining as the artefacts.

STAY

The Merrion is a five-star hotel which flawlessly melds period charm with modern convenience. Home to the largest private collection of 19th and 20th-century art in all of Ireland, it feels more like a gallery than a guesthouse. Enjoy afternoon tea in the Drawing Rooms, cocktails at the Cellar Bar and dinner at the Michelin-starred Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud.

If you only do one thing…

Take a self-guided Oscar Wilde tour. The writer, poet and playwright is one of Dublin’s most famous former residents – so start at his childhood home on the northwest corner of Merrion Square park before walking across the street to see Danny Osborne’s sculpture of him reclining on a rock in typically flamboyant fashion. Lastly, head through the wrought iron gates at Trinity College, where he (and Samuel Beckett and Bram Stoker) studied. It’s a good-looking campus with several must-sees, including the enchanting Long Room Library.

Known as ‘Little Jerusalem’ because of the Eastern European Jews that sought refuge here during the late 19th century, Portobello is also where George Bernard Shaw was born and James Joyce got drunk. Over the last decade, it’s become the southern city suburb where hip Dubliners across the city meet for a good time. With some of Dublin’s most innovative restaurants and a host of contemporary galleries and bric-à-brac boutiques, it’s a foodie (and shopaholics’) paradise. Residents love that it’s so close to the Camden Quarter’s nightlife and only 15 minutes from the centre on foot. Tree-lined walking and cycling paths along the Grand Canal only add to the allure.

EAT

The 25-seat Clanbrassil House on Portobello’s western edge mirrors Dublin’s small but mighty ethos. Wunderkind chef Gráinne O’Keefe serves charcoal-grilled specialities from her open kitchen. Convince your tablemates to order the family-style menu and sample a bit of everything. For more exceptional food without an intimidating price tag, head to Richmond or Delahunt. Both tout the Bib Gourmand distinction from Michelin. Richmond is more rustic, while Delahunt is all about updating Irish classics. 

DRINK

One of the best bars in all of Dublin, The Bernard Shaw is a must-visit. Storefront street art signals that it’s no ordinary pub, but head to the street food- and quirky décor-laden backyard beer garden to fully understand the magic. After all, it wouldn’t be a proper Portobello night out without pizza from the Big Blue Bus. Since this trendy and surprisingly sprawling watering hole is run by a record label, live music is often on offer as well.  

DO

Leave yourself plenty of time to wander the area’s array of independent shops. From kitschy kitchen gear to hand-dyed clothing you never know what treasures you may find. It’s almost impossible to leave without a wonderfully wacky souvenir.

STAY

No-frills Portobello Hotel is the easy answer, offering a cosy dose of canalside casual. For trendier Portobello visitors, it has to be The Dean. Located in the adjacent Camden Quarter, this ultra-cool four-star hotel has 52 impeccably designed rooms across six different categories. The rooftop bar is where this spot really shines, though. The views are simply breathtaking.

If you only do one thing… 

Roll out of bed and grab some grub at an effortlessly cool café. As with most hip and happening ’hoods around the world, brunch is a way of life in Portobello. The minimalist Meet Me in the Morning is a great choice, but Brother Hubbard South, Bibi’s and Wall & Keogh are all safe bets too. 

There’s a reason this mythical district graces every Irish guidebook. Nestled between Grafton Street and Trinity College along the Liffey’s southern bank, it’s one of the most central spots you can settle. Though world-class craic and after-dark debauchery play starring roles, it isn’t all pubs and clubs. From art galleries and film centres to pop-up markets and craft shops, the area’s daytime attractions are equally intoxicating. Culture vultures and fine diners are just as welcome as party chasers and backpackers. Nearly every Dublin visitor makes an appearance at one time or another, making it a great place for people-watching and celebrity-spotting.  

EAT

There's no shortage of culinary charmers in Temple Bar, although many people seem more than happy to pick up something swift before venturing to spots in the category below. If you want something a little more formal, Rosa Madre is a great option for lovers of Italian, while FX Buckley’s seasonal Irish produce never fails to delight.

DRINK

This being the centre of Dublin nightlife, you’re spoilt for choice in Temple Bar. It would be near sacrilege to visit without trying a pint of Ireland’s most famous export: Guinness. Palace Bar on Fleet Street has that quintessential pub feel, with natives indulging alongside tourists. When you’re ready for more hops, Porterhouse micro-brewery on Parliament Street is waiting. For something highbrow, look for three small stickers (‘VCC’) on a nondescript black door down Crown Alley. This marks the entrance to Vintage Cocktail Club, a candlelit speakeasy with an intimidatingly extensive menu.

DO

Expand your creative horizons by attending a screening at the Irish Film Institute or an exhibit at Temple Bar Gallery + Studios. If stills are more your thing, whittle the day away at the National Photographic Archive. It’s also worth seeing what’s on at the Project Arts Centre. 

STAY

The team behind Merchant House managed to retain homey 18th-century touches in its 2005 restoration. The Morgan falls decidedly on the other end of the spectrum. It doesn’t have old-world charm, but it does have designer interiors and a riad-like roof garden.

If you only do one thing…

Brave the crowds for dessert at the Queen of Tarts on bustling Cow’s Lane. There are loads of sweet treats to choose from at this quaint café, but the Bailey’s cheesecake trumps them all. Pun intended.