Where to stay in Rijeka

Rijeka’s classiest option is a modern business hotel with a spa and gym. Sauna cabins and massage and beauty treatments have also been introduced. The 120 rooms are tastefully done out, the in-house Kamov restaurant is one of the best in town, and the terrace café overlooks the city.

Jadran contains 66 nicely fitted rooms in an enviable shoreside location. Set by Rijeka’s first stretch of swimmable sea with its own stop on the No.1 bus route east of town in Pećine, the Jadran (‘Adriatic’) has been a spot for bathing since it opened in 1914. There’s a supplement charged for sea-facing rooms. Half and full-board deals are available.

If you’re looking for a cheapie in town and the Continental is full, come to the aptly named 14-floor ‘Skyscraper’ by the flyover. Following renovations a few years ago it now has an underground car park and café. The wonderful Socialist-era lobby has, sadly, been replaced by something more modern - while the rooms remain adequate.

Moored on Rijeka’s city-centre waterfront, this Danish-built ship used to ferry Swedes from Stockholm to the Kvarner islands before seeing action during the Siege of Dubrovnik in the 1990s. Her sailing days over, the former Kronprinsessan Ingrid was then moved from Mali Lošinj to here in Rijeka, where she was kitted out as a 35-room, three-star lodging with an extensive restaurant and 24-hour reception. A gym is planned for the near future.

Opened in 2006, the former Villa Kozulić is a modern, 61-bed youth hostel, the first in town. Well sited in Pećine, east of town by the sea on the No.2 bus route, the YHA offers standard dorm beds and three doubles in the attic, all with breakfast included, a snip for the price and location. Open all year and with 24-hour reception.