Nokturno

As they say on the menu, it's just a one-minute walk from the main square... and that's if you're going slowly. For years this has been the classic place for tourists to go without feeling like they're too much of a tourist. You'll hear many a local voice inside the faux-brick dining room or on the multi-tiered terrace, which climbs along up the street toward the Cathedral or down to Tkalčićeva. The food and prices – a big helping of lasagne for 30kn, for instance – will keep you coming back. This is all things to all men, a gastro anchor that also serves big salads, pastas, excellent pizzas, fish, squid and steaks.