Kopačina

If not the best restaurant on the island, certainly it has no rivals in the realm of lamb, served with a Forrest Gump-like dedication and in every way imaginable. There’s lamb soup, lamb on the spit, boiled lamb, lamb chops, lamb steak, lamb pâté and the local favourite: lamb under the peka. The clientele includes well-heeled tourists pointed here by locals and workmen still dusty from the nearby marble quarry, visible from the restaurant’s multi-levelled and shaded terrace. Above, on an open-air and wooden-roofed stone patio, you’ll find owner Ivo working the grill and the mechanised spit, which turns with a bike chain. Beyond is an expansive, renovated indoor dining room. But back to the lamb. In July and August there’s a lamb buffet (170kn) and guests can try every variety mentioned above plus lamb liver, local cheese, salted anchovies and lentil soup with smoked ham. Don’t leave without trying the vitalac, which one should do without the nuisance of vegetarians. It’s an island speciality: lamb liver wrapped in the intestines of a lamb which has just drunk milk. There’s also seafood and other peka dishes, and their own bread is baked freshly every day.