Cukeraj

A lot of locals swear by Cukeraj, a traditional cake shop and café that sticks to a time-honoured Central European repertoire. As well as a dependably sticky Sachertorte (18kn per slice), they also turn out one of Zagreb’s best examples of the Međimurska gibanica (15kn), a multi-layered confection that somehow contrives to put fruitcake, custard and apple pie in the same gloriously calorific stack. There are croissant-sandwiches and toasties for those who want something a bit more savoury. The only drawback is that the café space is in itself a bit on the ordinary side, and you might not make a special effort to come to this part of the centre unless you are applying for a visa extension at the Petrinjska branch of Croatia’s interior ministry.