Boban

Named after its owner, local football hero Zvonimir Boban, this popular two-storey operation is set just off Jelačić. Upstairs is a café, downstairs a (mainly Italian) restaurant. The kitchen turns out an enormous range of pastas. For instance, both the tagliatelle with truffles (75kn) and home-made black-squid gnocchi with salmon (71kn) are scrumptious – and the portions are staggering. You probably won’t need a starter, unless a group of you is sharing a Piatto Boban (81kn) of delicious cold meats and cheeses. There are meaty mains, too, pork tenderloin (77kn), and steaks (112kn-122kn).