Scattered across Zagreb are many works by Ivan Meštrović. This year marks the 60th anniversary of the death of Croatia’s best known sculptor, with multiple events taking place around Croatia and the United States, where he later settled. The Meštrović museum in Zagreb’s Upper Town may be closed for long-term renovation, but our walking tour of his most important works in the capital should give you a good idea why is still revered today.
Meštrović Pavilion
Built in 1938, the pavilion is one of the most distinctive and recognizable structures in the city. Over the years, the building has served many purposes, mirroring Zagreb’s history in the 20th and 21st centuries. First built as an art gallery, it was converted into a mosque during World War II. Afterwards, it was again converted into a museum commemorating the revolution against Fascism. Today, the pavilion has returned to its original purpose and hosts art exhibitions and frequent cultural events.
Main Square Frieze
To the west in Zagreb’s main square of Jelačić trg s an often overlooked Meštrović piece. On the north side, on a curved building façade, a frieze depicts muscular male figures wearing togas. This is an early example of the sculptor’s exploration of the human form which would become one of the main themes of Meštrović’s career.
Nikola Tesla
Going to the south and west, passing Cvjetni trg, is a Meštrović statue of the famous Croatian-Serb engineer Nikola Tesla, a contemporary and friend of Meštrović. Tesla is widely held in Croatia as a national hero, and you’ll often find the statue’s lap covered in flowers and wreaths. Steps away from the statue are some of the best cafés and restaurants in the city, allowing to take a pitstop from the walking tour for a coffee and a bite.
History of the Croats
A few minutes walk to the west, down Masarykova ulica, in the courtyard of the Law Department of the University of Zagreb, is Meštrović’s sculpture, History of the Croats. Completed in 1932, the sculpture is one of his most recognisable, the courtyard and the statue appearing on the university seal. The statue is of a matriarchal figure who represents a guardian of Croatian history and nationhood. The cross-legged figure has a stone slab in her lap with writing in ancient Croatian Glagolitic script. The sculpture wears a traditional folk costume from the Zagorje region of Croatia and is said to be based on the sculptor’s mother.
The Well of Life
Directly across the street nearby the Croatian National Theatre is our next work by Meštrović. Created in 1905, The Well of Life is now recognised as one of Meštrović’s most groundbreaking works, but at the time was controversial for its depiction of naked bodies. The bronze sculpture is made of ten crouching figures circling a small pool, each figure representing different stages in life.
Faculty of Fine Arts Garden
A 15-minute walk further west, past Britanski trg, takes us to the final stop on our tour, the sculpture garden in the courtyard of the University of Zagreb Department of Fine Arts. The green and contemplative space contains a small café, and multiple works by Meštrović and several other sculptors.