What you see on the restaurant tables of inland Istria differs completely to what is found in the far south of Dalmatia. Here’s a cross-country guide to dining in Croatia from coast to capital, via forests, mountains and sleepy wine-producing hamlets.
Diversity is what makes the cuisine of Croatia so special. In a country of more than 1,000 islands, 2,000km of coast, two major rivers, mountains, forests and plains, landscape, climate and history dictate what’s put on the dinner table.
And through these distinct regions – Mediterranean, Alpine and Continental – Turks, Venetians, Austrians, French and Hungarians have come and gone, leaving their influences in the kitchen. For centuries, inland Croatia and the coast were ruled by the Austro-Hungarian Empire and the Venetian Republic.
Croatian cuisine can be therefore divided between the tradition of Central Europe, showcased in the capital, Zagreb, and that of the Central Mediterranean.
Its culinary scene now matching those of the major cities of Central Europe, Zagreb can now provide a whole world of high-end dining options. As for domestic cuisine, you can taste specialities from just about any region of Croatia from Dalmatia to Zagorje – and in any price range.
One steadfast local favourite is štrukli, dough parcels filled with cottage cheese sometimes covered in breadcrumbs. Full-blown traditional restaurants lean towards pork, veal and other grilled and breaded delights; trendier, cosmopolitan fusion venues are rapidly finding a foothold from Kaptol down to and around the Lower Town. Meal breaks can be busy in business-like Zagreb – especially at neighbourhood spots offering cheap lunchtime specials, known here as gableci.
Continental Croatia is well known for its freshwater fish, including šaran (carp) and štuka (pike). Fiš paprikaš, freshwater fish stewed in a paprika broth, is another favourite. If you’re inland but don’t want fish, then čobanac, a meaty, paprika goulash, is also a regular find. Look out, too, for kulen, a spicy sausage popular in the region.
Gastronomy is a way of life in Istria, its peasant traditions, fresh, seasonal ingredients and inventive chefs combining to make this small peninsula the destination of choice for epicureans. Italians flood across the border on Sundays to sample the best of it. The celebrated use of truffles, to season steaks or added to chocolate cake, is only one example of the sophisticated dishes on offer.
Although good food can be found in most towns, resorts and villages, even remote outposts, certain establishments put the whole package together – ingredients, expertise, service and setting – to produce something truly memorable.
On the coast, expect to find top-quality fish, shellfish, octopus and squid. Look out especially for oysters from the Limski kanal, where one-shack operations produce tens of thousands of fine specimens every year. Fresh mussels can be delivered to most restaurant tables in Istria within an hour or two.
Inland restaurants are generally meat-oriented, menus listing pasta, steaks, veal, lamb and, of course, truffles, on everything from eggs to ice-cream. Here local produce means local, best illustrated amid the stand-out restaurants in the gastronomic hub around the modest communities of Brtonigla and Buje.
As in Dalmatia, the traditional tavern is known as a konoba. Dishes to highlight include fuži (pasta twists), boškarin (Istrian ox), manestra (vegetable soup), pršut (prosciutto) and ombolo (pork cutlet).
Dalmatia has a culinary tradition of preparing fish and seafood dating back to Greek, Roman and Byzantine times. Its waters are famously clean, producing fresh fish and seafood. Oysters from Mali Ston were first farmed by the Romans after Augustus conquered the Illyrian tribes.
Seafood may come buzara-style, gently poached in a tomato-based sauce. Fish is often just cooked on the grill, na žaru. Red mullet (trilja) is considered perfect for this. Brodet, fish stew, is also popular. Seafood risottos are another standard feature, especially crni rižot using dark squid ink. If there is any made od sipe, from cuttlefish, it has stronger, tastier ink.
Don’t be afraid to ask if the fish on offer is fresh, frozen or farmed. You will usually be shown the fresh fish on offer for you to choose from.
Škrpina, scorpion fish, has deliciously tender meat but it can be tricky to pick through the bones. John Dory (kovač), golden grey mullet (cipal) and the bream family (pagar) are also common – just ask what’s fresh. Dentex is usually excellent.
You’ll find grilled squid (lignje na žaru) on almost every menu. Octopus (hobotnica) is often used as a salad, chopped portions mixed with onion and herbs. The most popular shellfish are scampi (škampi), served in their shells, and invariably buzara style. Warn children that it won’t be neatly packaged in breadcrumbs. Use your fingers and expect it be pretty messy. Lobster (jastog) is invariably the dearest item on the menu.
The classic accompaniment to fish is blitva, a local kale mixed with potatoes. A simple side salad also goes well.
The real deal is best ordered a day in advance: peka or od peke, the cast-iron dome used to cover the meat being succulently slow-roasted with hot coals.
This article is sponsored by The Croatian National Tourism Board: 'Croatia Full of Life'.
