Throughout Dalmatia, the humble donkey is revered as a symbol of the region, honoured with statues and celebrated in children’s books.
Nowhere reveres, honours and celebrates donkeys more than the village of Tribunj, north-west of Šibenik. Here, a statue of this beautiful but stubborn creature stands by a stone bridge that once secured the crossing between a small island and the mainland. Today, it’s a popular selfie spot for visitors.
Every summer, tourists flock to Tribunj for the annual donkey races. As this Dalmatian community looks forward to another successful event in 2024, Time Out Croatia speaks to the head of the local tourist office, Josipa Jerkov, to find out more about this special relationship.
“Preparations for the next year have already begun,” she says. “This is a unique event that keeps the whole family entertained.” This summer, 14 riders took part in the 56th annual races. Each donkey must have at least one parent from the Tribunj area. Some earn a standing ovation from the crowd, others prefer to approach bystanders for a pat on the back. Only the best storm to the finish line with their rider on top.
“The atmosphere was incredible. We did not expect such large numbers of visitors,“ enthuses Jerkov.
The races are rooted in legend. For centuries, the people of Tribunj had to defend their homes, their forests and their fishing waters from the Ottomans. When this threat increased, locals moved south to the waterfront and the nearest island just beyond.
Connecting the two was a moveable wooden bridge, guarded with sentries. “One day, tired and exhausted, they fell asleep while on duty, leaving the entire area unguarded,” says Jerkov, telling a tale known by all in Tribunj.
“Turkish scouts noticed this and informed their army that this would be the best time to attack. The Turkish army set off and was already nearing the village. On the mainland, opposite the island’s defensive walls, a grazing donkey noticed that something was happening. With all its might, the donkey began to bray loudly, causing the entire bay to echo. It woke the sleeping guards, who immediately spotted the approaching army. They sounded the alarm so that locals could gather and defend their village. The people of Tribunj bravely faced the Turks and a fierce battle ensued. In the end, Tribunj prevailed, and the victory was attributed to the donkey. This could be why Tribunj hold the animal in such high regard.”
It later inspired author Ana Bilić to write the children’s story, How Ćušo Saved Tribunj, illustrated by Lucija Zdunić.
Some 60 years ago, a local resident was passing the bridge riding a donkey, returning from the fields. “At that moment, someone realised that the village was full of donkeys, and that they should have a race between them,” says Jerkov. “So, they brought them to the main square and dressed them up in traditional attire.”
The first one didn't go smoothly, as donkeys were more accustomed to fieldwork, but the race ended with a winner, a feast and the general agreement to hold it again the following year.
“It was decided that a solemn procession of donkeys and riders through the village would feature young men and women in traditional folk costume. A ‘duke of the races' would supervise the contest, alongside an alaj-ćuš to encourage the donkeys to move. A shot from a cannon shot signalled the start the event, a gunshot from a musket each race itself. Word spread, and more and more came every year.”
Visitors can also go to Ćušin raj, a donkey farm 2km west of Tribunj, where children can pet some of the four-legged residents. On the nearby island of Logorun, Tribunj residents and restaurateurs have funded the transfer of older donkeys to a quiet place of retirement, where plans for call for an interpretive centre and tourist attraction.