Hotel AS

It's a mystery why this hotel, which opened in 1999, gets so readily ignored within Zagreb hotel circles. A four-star set in Zelengaj Park, it has 22 spacious rooms – 19 rooms, two junior suites and a business suite – with overstuffed furniture, two-sink bathrooms, reproductions of Impressionist paintings and views of the leafy park. The sensation here is that you are at a fancy mountainside retreat. The architecture is a wave of green glass that's a cross between feng shui and tree-hugger retro. Also on the property is the longstanding and chi-chi Restaurant AS, renowned for its seafood specialities. To get to the centre of town from the AS, take the ten-minute footpath over the hills and trek through the woods – seriously.