Pula is probably more well-known for its music festivals than for its luxury travel scene, but that just makes Grand Hotel Brioni even more special (and is probably partly the reason for its reasonable prices). One of the newer hotels in the Radisson collection (and the first on the Adriatic coast), Grand Hotel Brioni is the result of £30m of renovations on the historic Hotel Brioni.
Let’s get one thing straight first: this place is huge, with 227 rooms and 12 suites. But it feels far from touristy and overcrowded. In fact, Grand Hotel Brioni’s most alluring quality is its total seclusion, set on its own little slice of sea with its very own private beach, surrounded by a pine tree forest. The whole building is vast, grand and draped in blue, with small Roman details if you look close enough. Rooms are clean and beautifully furnished, with Acqua di Parma toiletries in the bathroom and your very own pillow roulette (three rows of fat hotel pillows, each of them differently stuffed, feathered and plumped). If you can afford to, it’s worth paying a little more for a sea-facing room, which look out over the infinity pool, the beach and further out across across the Istrian Riviera.
Each morning at the Brioni Forum Restaurant, breakfast is the star of the show: all fresh fluffy omelettes, champagne, chia pudding and pastries (and an actual barista making actual coffee). But dinner’s got you covered too, featuring rows and rows of pasta, sushi, salads and Croatian starters. The best part, of course, is the terrace where you eat it all, basked in warm yellow sun. For a treat (and to really see what this hotel can do in food), book dinner at the supremely meaty Sophia, which showcases local produce. Start with bread and seaweed butter before moving onto tender beef carpaccio, octopus, rib-eye, strip loin and more. More than worth the subsequent meat coma, it’s a stand-out meal. More of a fish guy? Go for Brioni Lungo Mare.
If you do nothing else, make the most out of Brioni’s glorious spa. Choose from a stone massage, a Swedish deep tissue massage, a facial and more, or opt for a couples’ one (with a private bath, we’ll point out). Steam in the sauna or spend some time by the pool (outdoor or indoor, the choice is yours). We’d recommend ordering a frozen yuzu marg. Or perhaps three.
Neighbourhood
You’re in your own little private world. That’s kind of the point. But if you do want to venture into the great outdoors, Pula’s Roman amphitheatre is pretty much a non-negotiable (and only a bit smaller than the Colosseum), and from there you can explore the main town, stuffed full of bars serving up local wine and spritz. Check out the two nearby beaches and Titov Park, which becomes Wine City in summer, a late-night festival celebrating local wines.
Nearby
1. Farabuto: A fantastic fish restaurant a five minute drive from the hotel. Family-run, off an unassuming side road and clearly a bit of a secret, you’ll find mostly locals here, tucking into an often-changing menu with a few classics. Try the deeply rich octopus and cuttlefish stew with fried polenta or the tagliatelle with scampi and mussels.
2. Olive Oil Museum: Whether you know about Croatia’s fabulous olive oil or not, this is a must-visit. You can book a group olive oil tasting, learn about the history of Istrian olive oil, and obviously buy some to take home too.
3. Brijuni National Park: One of the islands’ best-kept secrets, the national park is a short boat trip ride from nearby Fažana. Hop on the little train with a tour guide and you’ll soon come up to llamas, donkeys, and even a huge elephant, gifted to Croatia by former Indian Prime Minister Indira Gandhi. The whole thing is pretty remarkable.
Time Out tip
Not based in Europe? Smash two major holiday destinations in one go and get a 25-minute ferry from Pula to Venice, Italy.