Retro Caffè

This two-room café-bar at the southern end of Savska cesta (near the Savski most tram terminus) is far from the cute exercise in nostalgia that you might assume from the name. It does have an old-style domestic-apartment feel, however, with bits of salvaged sideboards and storage cabinets jutting from the walls – each filled with a distinctly homely kind of junk (biscuit tins, toy cars, old books). The front room with huge curving bay window comes with fitted soft benches and feels rather like an oriental pasha's divan. Hoegaarden, Leffe, Erdinger and Croatia's finest Velebitsko pivo feature among the bottled ales.