When news broke that Stein had acquired the fine old village pub in St Merryn, it was hard not to envisage, with inescapable cynicism, a chic makeover, a gastrofied menu and prices pitched at global voyagers, not villagers. To his credit, Stein hasn’t taken that route. The menu is made up of simple British pub fare (real beef burger, ploughman’s, fresh tomato soup with tapenade, apple pie) prepared with care, and the decor is traditional and rustic, with old black-and-white photos on the wall and bottles of ketchup and malt vinegar sitting prosaically on each wooden table.