Yum Thai

The solemn Thai ladies here churn out reliable regular menu items, but for authentic heat, we order from the “Thai menu.” Tofu is sculpted into hearty fried sheets and then stuffed with even more firm tofu for a remarkable impersonation of meat. Lime-based soups open up the palate for entrées like preserved egg with basil and curried roasted duck (an excellent balance of richness and slight spice). Service can be stern, but for a blast of Bangkok in the Western Suburbs, this is your best bet.