The “wow” factor at this take-out joint dedicated to bao (steamed Asian dumplings) could be anything: It could be the fluffy bao stuffed with sweet, dark-red barbecue pork, spicy Mongolian beef or Thai curry chicken. It could be the kung pao rice bowls laced with crunchy cashews, or maybe the pomegranate ginger ale spiked with sharp slivers of fresh ginger. But it’s probably the mere fact that you’re eating so well at a fast-food restaurant in a mall.
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