Triple Crown Restaurant

After more than a decade tucked away on a Chinatown side street, this late-night institution moved to the main drag, with a second-story view of the area’s action. The dinner hour brings a nonstop flurry of cooks plucking lobsters, sea bass and Dungeness crab from the seafood tanks, but after 10pm, it’s drunken dim sum time. All the fried classics are suitable stomach lining, but we say meet in the middle with the late-night menu of small-plate portions of garlicky peapod greens, salt-and-pepper pork chops and tender quail smothered in peppery black bean sauce.